Burgundy (Cote d'Or) - 2004

At best, good wines – but not great with firm to racy acidity. From a cool, fresh year, the 2004s are drinking nicely now.

2004 sees a return to a classic style of white Burgundy, fresh and fine flavoured, with the attractive play of minerality against richness. The meticulous growers, who controlled yields and looked after their vines in gloomy August, have made delicious wines.

The season got off to a good start with successful flowering. However, June and July were cool. The gloomy outlook was compounded by a serious outbreak of oidium (mildew). When the sun was most needed for ripening in August, the weather was cloudy and relatively cold, and rain swelled the berries. Then there was a miracle. The whole of September was perfect; not hot, but the sky was open and clear with exceptional light. A light north wind helped concentrate the sugar and acidity and kept the fungus at bay. The only challenge remaining was to harvest as late as possible but also to have finished before October's rain.