When it comes to buying Burgundy Toby’s mantra is to put the producer first. Find a producer or producers whose style of wine you like and follow their wines. Refer to the online guide to Burgundy for descriptions of the styles of wines made by the producers we champion.
A new arrival to this list is Sylvain Pataille, an exciting young grower in Marsannay. He trained as an oenologist in Bordeaux and still consults to 15 or so domaines in Burgundy. His family had 4ha of vines in 1905, but lost them during difficult financial times. Sylvain began in 2001 with 4ha of vines and now has 14ha, mainly en fermage (on long-term rental), which are undergoing conversion to biodynamic cultivation. He makes white from aligoté and chardonnay rose, whose skin turns pink when ripe, as well as rosé and red.
Sylvain’s Clos du Roy Marsannay 2009 is made from a 1.2ha parcel of vines planted in 1970. It is rich and concentrated, with a smooth and fine palate with rich damson-like fruit supported by polished tannins that glide over the palate.
This article was first published in September 2011. The wine mentioned above is no longer available for sale, but please click here for all Sylvain Pataille wines.