If DO Toro puts you in mind of head-butting reds, you'd have been right – once. One critic even opined that it was "excellent for stewing pears". No longer, thanks to the Garcías, old hands of Ribero del Duero who have tamed the beast. In Galicia, DO Valdeorras is chasing the fame of its coastal neighbour Rías Baixas home of albariño. With the gorgeous, buttery godello grape and Rafael Palacios leading the charge, how can it fail?

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