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ITALY: HIDDEN GHEMME – AND GATTINARA

Tucked away in the foothills of the Alps, the 'two Gs' of Piemonte live in the shadow of its more famous Bs, Barolo and Barbaresco. Yet this can be nebbiolo to relish. After a long search and a lot of tasting, Sebastian Payne MW has found something special, in the fine family estate of Torraccia del Piantavigna, whose archives have been tapped for a rare opportunity to sample ten-year-old wines.

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