Burgundy

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Burgundy

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Toby Morrhall Toby Morrhall

World-class value whites and a great run of vintages for reds

The 2017 vintage (I reserve judgement on the 2018s until after the malolactic fermentation has happened in the summer) is a very appealing and extrovert vintage for both colours. It is ripe yet fresh, of medium body and concentration.

White Burgundy

There are lots of white wines from the Mâconnais in the southern part of Burgundy offering world-class value for money in the £10-17 range. 2014-2017 are all attractive and there is a lot to choose from. Joseph Burrier, Château de Beauregard, Cordier and Bonhomme are all safe pairs of hands. The Côte d'Or has also had a great run of vintages. Meursaults from Coche-Bizouard, Fichet and Château de Meursault are top drawer, as are Pulignys from de Montille, Jadot, Carillon and Henri Boillot. Chablis has had a hard time of it with hail and frost.

Red Burgundy

It is very difficult to find good red Burgundy below £20-25 a bottle, basically because yields need to be low to produce good quality and there is not enough good land. Even modest wines like Givry, Savigny and Chorey are priced at this level. We will soon discontinue The Society's Red Burgundy and the Prudhons, who make our Exhibition Saint-Aubin Rouge, are ripping up their village pinot noir in Saint-Aubin and replanting with the more profitable chardonnay, so this will go too.

Under £20, it's best to buy the fruitier and less structured Beaujolais. However, Sylvain Pataille in Marsannay and Jean-Marc Vincent, at the other end of the Côte, in Santenay, work on small yields for their price points and so offer excellent value for money. Clos Salomon in Givry is fairly priced too. Global warming has been good for red Burgundy, though, and there are many more successful vintages per decade than previously.

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