In most countries you’ll find classic hunters’ stew recipes that bear the fruits of any accompanying foraging in one pot. They’re what you might call a moveable feast in ingredients terms, and there are many different recipes depending on the landscape. The Italian classic cacciatore (meaning ‘hunter’) is just such a stew, and is easy to prepare. Here it features chicken rather than the rabbit or game that would originally have found its way into the stewpot, which will save you on ammunition! Although mushrooms would have been a commonly added treasure of the forager, they don’t feature in every version you can find. That said, the forests of Italy’s interior and mountainous spine provide funghi in abundance, so they’re in this recipe. But such stews are very forgiving, so feel free to add what you fancy – I’ve been known to add in a handful of capers for their piquant tang, olives for their salty bite and sweet red peppers. It makes a wonderful partner to Italy’s marvellously versatile red wines and more robust whites.
Ingredients – served 6 to 8
- 8 chicken thighs, skin off, bone in (other fowl are good and portions of rabbit have a delicious authenticity)
- 6 tbsp olive oil
- 1 large onion, roughly chopped
- 2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
- 2 carrots, roughly chopped
- 1 clove of garlic, chopped (optional)
- 175ml dry white wine
- 250ml chicken stock
- 400g tin of chopped tomatoes or passata
- 200g chestnut or closed cap mushrooms
- 2 tbsp tomato purée
- 2 bay leaves
- 3 sage leaves, finely chopped
- 1 rosemary sprig or a couple of sprigs of thyme
- Salt and cracked black pepper
- Parsley to garnish (optional)
Method
- Set a deep frying or sauté pan, or casserole, over a medium heat, and add the oil. Once it’s sizzling hot, add the chicken thighs four at a time and cook until lightly browned (crowding the pan will result in the thighs steaming rather than browning). Using a slotted spoon, remove the thighs and set aside.
- Reduce the heat under the pan and add the chopped vegetables and fry gently until softened, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and the tomato purée, stir them in and cook for a further minute.
- Return the chicken thighs to the pan and add the white wine and stock. Bring the heat up to medium and let the wine and stock bubble until reduced by half.
- Add the chopped tomatoes or passata, mushrooms and herbs and cook over a low heat for 30 minutes or so, until the thighs are very tender. Serve sprinkled with parsley.
Accompany this simple stew with flat noodles, mash, polenta or rice, all of which are admirable with the plentiful sauce.
