Zarate is a family firm dating back to 1920, but it has taken the current generation to really lift the quality of these super-pure wines.
The winemaker is Eulogio Pomares, who studied in both Bordeaux and then Germany to investigate parallels between albariño and riesling. His first vintage was 2000 and he has steadily been upgrading technology but, mainly, improving quality in the 11 vineyards which they either buy from or own. Average vine age is an impressive 35 years and some are being planted, ungrafted, with a view to biodynamic viticulture. As in so much of this area, granite predominates.