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A golden run

A golden run

There has been a series of good to excellent vintages in Burgundy from 2012 to 2016 (I reserve judgement on the 2017s until after the malolactic fermentation happens in the spring). All but 2015 have been short harvests mainly due to frost, so stocks are variable in quantity and worth snapping up when available. The Côte de Beaune has been the worst affected of all.

2016 produced superb wines with the aromas of a cool year and the palates of a ripe year. It is difficult to compare this special vintage with previous ones because of this remarkable character. Normally wines with ripe palates have less intense aromas. Conversely aromatic wines can in white wines have excessive acidity or in red wines possess scratchy or green tannins. In 2016, we have all the benefits and none of the disadvantages. The only big problem is quantity. Unfortunately 2016 produced roughly half a normal crop due to severe April frosts.

Red Burgundy to drink now

  • 2008 is coming out of its shell at villages and premier cru level. A cool year with flavour ripeness at lowish alcohols.
  • 2009 is a very warm year, with rich flavours, easy to enjoy early but with the concentration to mature well.
  • 2011 is a lighter, more forward year giving much pleasure now.
  • 2014 has not closed up; a medium-bodied year with lovely sweet tannins.

White Burgundy drinking well now

Most Mâcon and village Chablis is ready two years or so after bottling. The notes here refer to villages and premiers crus from the Côte de Beaune.

  • 2011 is most attractive now.
  • 2012 is ripe and rich; lovely now.
  • 2013 is fresh, bright and ready now.
  • 2014 is a superb vintage. Lesser wines lovely. Best will keep further.
  • 2015 is a warm vintage; most of the lesser wines are enjoyable young.

Toby Morrhall
2018

Toby Morrhall

Toby Morrhall
Buyer for Burgundy

2018



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