Castello di Volpaia create compelling, contemporary interpretations of sangiovese, which exude vitality and freshness. From the opening to their range, their Chianti Classico (a firm favourite of mine), to their Riserva, to the jewel in their crown – their Coltassala Gran Selezione – the wines all share vivid purity and precise definition.
I am very happy to offer you the latest Coltassala as a First Release, from the spectacular 2021 vintage. This wine is always an exceptional example of the heights to which Chianti Classico can soar, but this vintage is particularly special. It displays beautifully delineated, intense and tangy cranberry and redcurrant fruit, interwoven with notes of clove and cedar from maturation in new French oak, and framed by firm yet fine tannins.
Order by midday on Friday 14th March
The vineyards of Volpaia, situated in the Radda commune, are among the highest of Chianti Classico at 400m above sea level and higher – sometimes referred to as ‘Alto Chianti’. This elevation plays a crucial role – and ever more important in the increasingly warm vintages – in the inherent energy of the wines. Coltassala is the name of Volpaia’s oldest vineyard, populated with clones of ancient sangiovese vines and a little mammolo (another native grape), too.
Owner Giovanella Stianti used to sell to The Wine Society back in the 1970s and today her daughter, Federica, manages the idyllic hamlet-based estate. The village of Volpaia can trace its history to references in 1172 but lay abandoned until the Mascheroni Stianti family lovingly restored the fortified hilltop village, concealing a modern winery within the ancient buildings. It is now a thriving hub of good taste and culinary prowess, with an ancient stone oil press and thriving cooking school alongside the winery. Showing as much respect towards the estate’s vineyards, they converted to organic viticulture, bringing the life back to the forest-surrounded site.
The wines are among the region’s most elegant. They have great finesse in their youth but will age gracefully for many years. The 2021 is, in my view, worth waiting for. I would keep this in your Reserves for a few years yet.
