Get your fishmonger to scale and fillet two large bream or four small ones, leaving the skin on. Check them for pin-bones by running the palm of your hand over the flesh and removing any stragglers with tweezers. Slice off the top of a head of garlic. Drizzle the exposed cloves with olive oil, replace the "lid" and wrap tightly in foil. Bake in a fairly hot oven until very tender (about 35-45 minutes). Drain two cans of cannellini beans. Crush with a fork and add enough fruity olive oil to make a chunky mash. Squeeze the roasted garlic out of the head and stir as much as is wise into the bean mash. Season to taste and scatter with finely-chopped thyme leaves. Divide between four plates and keep warm - a hot tray is perfect. Fire up the grill, and in the pan, minus the grid, arrange the fish, skin-side up, along with four vines of baby plum or cherry tomatoes. Brush everything with oil and season well. Grill for 7-8 minutes until the skin is blistered and the tomatoes charred. Lift the fillets from the pan onto the waiting mash and garnish with the tomatoes.
Gutsy rosés work well where tomatoes are involved, as do Mediterranean full-flavoured or new wave sturdy Portuguese whites.