Jersey Royals with a Summer Truffle Cream

Jersey Royals with a Summer Truffle Cream

When in season, the self-appointed king of new potatoes should be scooped up absolutely fresh, papery skins almost detaching themselves and sweet flesh needing only a quick steam, a lick of butter and some seasoning. But we all get carried away and if you've bought a few too many, this is a lovely recipe for a bag that has been sitting about for a bit.

If you can find a fresh summer truffle, so much the better. If not, use a jar of the preserved kind which normally yields one decent-sized truffle or two small ones. A little pot of creamed truffle trimmings, usually sold in Italian delicatessens, is a very good option too and definitely worth squirrelling away in the store cupboard.

At the restaurant in the agriturismo of which Vina Laguna is just a small part, chef Robert Golic adds cuttlefish to the finished article but this works well as a luxurious base for grilled spring chicken or wild salmon, or even just as it is as a starter, served in ramekins.

Serves 4

Ingredients

  • A medium-sized black summer truffle, fresh or from a jar, or a small jar of truffle 'cream'
  • A dash of tartufo olive oil (ie scented with black truffle). Given the choice, go for 'intenso'.
  • 10-12 Jersey Royals, or any young new potatoes, peeled and diced
  • A generous knob of butter
  • A couple of tablespoons of thick cream
  • Salt and pepper

Method

Jersey Royals with a Summer Truffle Cream Jersey Royals with a Summer Truffle
Cream prepared by Janet Wynne Evans

Bring a large pan of water to the boil and salt well.

If you're using a fresh truffle, clean it carefully with a brush or very slightly moistened kitchen paper. Don't immerse it in water. If using a jar, drain the truffles well and dry thoroughly.

Slice your truffles paper-thin. There's really no substitute for a proper truffle-slicer here but a cheese scraper might do it. A few crumbly bits will fall off. Guard these jealously.

Cook the potatoes until very soft, and about to disintegrate. Drain well in a colander and wait for the steam to die before pushing them through a potato ricer back into the pan, on a very low heat. If you don't have a ricer, return them to the pan and use an old-fashioned masher. Don't be tempted to use a whisk or food processor, which can make the texture gloopy.

Beat in the butter and if you are using a pot of creamed truffle, stir it in now, plus just enough cream to make a smooth thick, luxurious puree. Stir in the crumbled truffle trimmings and finish with a good lick of the truffle-scented oil. Taste and season well.

Divide the mixture between four warmed plates or ramekins. Top with the truffle slices and serve.

Wine recommendation:

This Istrian recipe idea comes from Robert Golic the chef at Agrolaguna, producer of our Vina Laguna Malvazija, which is the perfect match. Alternatively, pick a herby Mediterranean-style white or juicy rosé if you prefer.

May/June 2016

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