Champagne Pierre Gerbais Grains de Celles Extra Brut NV

Eight generations of the Gerbais family have their vine growing roots in Champagne and particularly in Celles-sur-Source in the Côte des Bars, the southernmost part of Champagne, and they have been making Champagnes themselves since 1930. Their vines are situated on land at the confluence of four river valleys, of the Laignes, Seine, Ource and Arce, which provides several expositions and terroirs to choose from, including south-facing slopes – known locally as ‘en droit’ - proffering richer, riper wines, and some facing north – envers, or ‘the wrong side’ – which bring freshness and vivacity, particularly in warmer years. In many ways the geology here is closer to that of Chablis and parts of the Côte d’Or than the majority of Champagne on the Marne further north. Indeed, Aurélien Gerbais, who joined the family business in 2009 and is now winemaker, takes Burgundy as an inspiration for some of his methods, down to using demi-muids once belonging to Olivier Lamy in Saint-Aubin in the Côte de Beaune to store his reserve wines.

Today they own 18 hectares of vines, the vast majority in and around Celles-sur-Source. 10 hectares of the vineyard area is planted with pinot noir, with the remainder split between pinot blanc and chardonnay. Indeed, the Gerbais family is the most important producer of pinot blanc in Champagne, with their four hectares. All their grapes are farmed sustainably, employing organic principles, and they use organic and indigenous yeasts. Aurélien is not resting on anyone’s laurels here and is restlessly and seriously trying new methods in oak fermentation and malolactic and experimenting with yeast alongside traditional methods to produce complex and fascinating Champagnes.