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Château Desmirail, Margaux 2008

Red Wine from France - Bordeaux
A maturing Margaux displaying hallmark fragrance, balance and length. A delightful mid-weight claret.
is no longer available
Code: CM15191

Wine characteristics

  • Red Wine
  • Light to medium-bodied
  • Cabernet Merlot
  • 12.5% Alcohol
  • Oak used but not v. noticeable
  • Now to 2023
  • Cork, natural

Cru Classe Medoc, Graves

The original and most famous wine classification came about when the organisers of the 1855 Universal Exposition of Paris wanted, naturally enough, to show the finest wines of the Bordeaux region. Brokers dealing in the wines got together and produced two classifications of the best red and sweet wines respectively, based on the selling price of the wines at that time. The list was produced very soon after a request for it from the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce was made, strongly suggesting that there was an ‘unofficial’ hierarchy already well known to the brokers.

These Grand Cru Classé wines were ranked in five tiers and, apart from the famous promotion of Château Mouton Rothschild in 1973 and the addition of Château Cantemerle to the fourth growths soon after the classification was established, they have remained unchanged ever since. Effectively, they represent what should be the best wines of the Médoc with the one interloper, Château Haut-Brion from Pessac-Léognan in the...
The original and most famous wine classification came about when the organisers of the 1855 Universal Exposition of Paris wanted, naturally enough, to show the finest wines of the Bordeaux region. Brokers dealing in the wines got together and produced two classifications of the best red and sweet wines respectively, based on the selling price of the wines at that time. The list was produced very soon after a request for it from the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce was made, strongly suggesting that there was an ‘unofficial’ hierarchy already well known to the brokers.

These Grand Cru Classé wines were ranked in five tiers and, apart from the famous promotion of Château Mouton Rothschild in 1973 and the addition of Château Cantemerle to the fourth growths soon after the classification was established, they have remained unchanged ever since. Effectively, they represent what should be the best wines of the Médoc with the one interloper, Château Haut-Brion from Pessac-Léognan in the Graves region.

The wines of the right bank, such as Saint-Emilion and Pomerol were not included because their selling price was not as high at that time. Five first growths sit at the head of 62 properties, all of them from the Médoc except for Château Haut-Brion in Pessac-Léognan.

Naturally enough, there have been many unofficial revisions made over the years, with expert opinions brought to bear on what promotions and demotions might have been over the years, but none of these musings, no matter how reflective of changing standards and prices they might be, will change the stratification as it stands.

The classification is as follows:
First Growths (Premiers Crus)
Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac; Château Latour, Pauillac; Château Margaux, Margaux; Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan ; Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac.

Second Growths (Deuxièmes Crus)
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux; Château Rauzan-Gassies, Margaux; Château Léoville-Las Cases, Saint-Julien; Château Léoville-Poyferré, Saint-Julien; Château Léoville-Barton, Saint-Julien; Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux; Château Gruaud-Larose, Saint-Julien; Château Lascombes, Margaux; Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux; Château Pichon Longueville Baron, Pauillac; Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac; Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien; Château Cos d'Estournel, Saint-Estèphe; Château Montrose, Saint-Estèphe.

Third Growths (Troisièmes Crus)
Château Kirwan, Margaux; Château d'Issan (Margaux); Château Lagrange, Saint-Julien; Château Langoa-Barton, Saint-Julien; Château Giscours, Margaux; Château Malescot Saint Exupéry, Margaux; Château Cantenac-Brown, Margaux; Château Boyd-Cantenac, Margaux; Palmer, now Château Palmer, Margaux; Château La Lagune, Ludon (Haut-Médoc); Château Desmirail, Margaux; Château Dubignon, Margaux; Château Calon-Ségur, Saint-Estèphe; Château Ferrière, Margaux; Château Marquis d'Alesme Becker, Margaux.

Fourth Growths (Quatrièmes Crus)
Château Saint-Pierre, Saint-Julien; Château Talbot, Saint-Julien; Château Branaire-Ducru, Saint-Julien; Château Duhart-Milon, Pauillac; Château Pouget, Margaux; Château La Tour Carnet, Saint-Laurent (Haut-Médoc); Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe; Château Beychevelle, Saint-Julien; Château Prieuré-Lichine, Margaux; Château Marquis de Terme, Margaux.

Fifth Growths (Cinquièmes Crus)
Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac; Château Batailley, Pauillac; Château Haut-Batailley, Pauillac; Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac; Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse, Pauillac; Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac; Château Lynch-Moussas, Pauillac; Château Dauzac, Margaux; Château d'Armailhac, Pauillac; Château du Tertre, Margaux; Château Haut-Bages-Libéral, Pauillac; Château Pédesclaux, Pauillac; Château Belgrave, Saint-Laurent (Haut-Médoc); Château de Camensac, Saint-Laurent (Haut-Médoc); Château Cos Labory, Saint-Estèphe; Château Clerc-Milon, Pauillac; Château Croizet Bages, Pauillac; Château Cantemerle, Macau (Haut-Médoc).

Alongside the reds resides the classification for Sauternes and Barsac from further up river on the Garonne. There, 27 estates make up a smaller pyramid of their own, topped by the legendary Château d’Yquem, which had been classified out on its own above all the other sweet wines of the region.

Since the 1885 classification there have been other such systems established. Those of Graves and Saint-Emilion, both established much later than the 1855 and both subject to change, changes which cause no end of trouble for the authorities as estates are promoted or, more contentiously demoted and seek legal redress for the perceived injustice.

Cru Bourgeois is a further classification in the Médoc, representing some 30% of the production of the area. It was established in 1932 to represent properties outside of the Grand Cru Classé estates, though it was not officially recognised by the French government until 2003. At that time the selection of properties entitled to use the designation was revised and, unsurprisingly, fiercely contested by those who were left outside the classification, leading to a legal decision annulling the original classification while their status is re-examined by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce. The list has previously been revised every 12 years, but from the 2018 vintage will be accredited every five years, and is based on the history terroir, winemaking and quality control of the properties, overseen by the Alliance des Crus Bourgeios de Médoc created in the same year as the revision. It is divided into three categories: Cru Bourgeios, Cru Bourgeios Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. In theory the fact that qualification for the designation is based on quality should see improvements in the quality of wines made under its nomenclature.
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Château Desmirail

This third growth Margaux property is owned by Denis Lurton who took over from his father Lucien in 1992. It is well placed on the Route des Châteaux in the commune of Cantenac not far from the Margaux cru classé properties owned by some of his siblings (Château Brane-Cantenac belongs to Henri, Château Durfort Vivens belongs to Gonzague, and Château Ferrière belongs to Gonzague's wife Claire Villars Lurton).

The property comprises 37 hectares of vineyard planted 70% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 1% petit verdot on deep gravels. The wine is aged for around fourteen months with around 40% new oak. The château dates from the 18th century and its name from the 17th, when owner Jean Desmirail married Mademoiselle Rausan.

Bordeaux Vintage 2008

This is a vintage that took everyone by surprise. Anyone who took a holiday in the Bordeaux region in August 2008 will understand why the success of the vintage is a surprise. It was cool, wet and decidedly unpromising. July had been dry and sunny and there were smiles on the vignerons faces until the August weather set in. Fortunately, the smiles returned as September provided lovely weather for the harvest from the middle of the month onwards. Indeed, the fine weather stayed throughout October and the vintage was saved. All the major successes were picked later than usual, and this exceptionally long growing season, enabling the fruit to achieve complete ripeness, finesse and complexity of flavour, is what has given the vintage its character.

This was a vintage that required patience and hard work from the growers. Adaptability in the face of capricious weather conditions was vital and they had to wait until their fruit reached full maturity if they were to make good wine. It was...
This is a vintage that took everyone by surprise. Anyone who took a holiday in the Bordeaux region in August 2008 will understand why the success of the vintage is a surprise. It was cool, wet and decidedly unpromising. July had been dry and sunny and there were smiles on the vignerons faces until the August weather set in. Fortunately, the smiles returned as September provided lovely weather for the harvest from the middle of the month onwards. Indeed, the fine weather stayed throughout October and the vintage was saved. All the major successes were picked later than usual, and this exceptionally long growing season, enabling the fruit to achieve complete ripeness, finesse and complexity of flavour, is what has given the vintage its character.

This was a vintage that required patience and hard work from the growers. Adaptability in the face of capricious weather conditions was vital and they had to wait until their fruit reached full maturity if they were to make good wine. It was important as a buyer to taste and taste again to monitor the evolution of the wines because of the lateness of the harvest.

The good news is that there are very many fine examples to be found. Pauillac, St-Julien, Pessac-Léognan and the right bank have made a number of outstanding wines: ripe yet fresh, generously flavoured, multi-faceted and fine. Many of the best will benefit from a little more time in your cellars, and many of the middle rank are drinking beautifully just a few years after the vintage.
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2008 vintage reviews

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