Half bottle of Château Malescasse, Haut-Médoc 2011

The neo-classical château at Malescasse dates from 1824 and over the next 170 years or so its fortunes ebbed and flowed until the house and its vineyards were acquired by Guy Tesseron, scion of a famous Cognac house and owner of châteaux Pontet-canet and Lafon-Rochet, in 1970. He invested a great deal in restoring the fabric and the reputation of the estate and built it back up to its original 40 hectares. After a brief period in the hands of a telecommunications group it was bought by private health care entrepreneur Philippe Austruy, already owner and renovator of Provencal property Commanderie de Peyrassol, who saw great potential at Malescasse even after the ministrations of the Tesserons. He quickly set about refurbishing the cellars, vineyards and house and brought in renowned Bordeaux consultant Stéphane Derononcourt to advise.

This cru bourgeois property sits in a direct line with Margaux to the south and Saint-Julien to the north, on a crest of a gravel croupe overlooking the commune of Lamarque at the highest point of the Médoc, about 30 metres above sea level. Here the sand, gravel and clay soils lie over a bedrock of limestone provide good drainage and are poor enough to challenge the vines to seek nutirients and water by rooting deeply. Philippe Austruy has overseen extensive replanting to increase the vine density and to ensure that plantings best reflect the extensive soil analysis that was carried outt over the 28 plots when he took over. Sustainable farming is pursued throughout, looking for the perfect balance between the environment and the vines, even to the extent of planting barley between the rows to help overcome soil compaction and thus encourage microbial life and to provide green fertiliser. Everything here is carefully thought out.

After harvesting the grapes are sorted at the winery and gravity fed throughout the vinification process, reflecting the gentle handling that is de rigeur. Each plot is vinified separately in stainless steel following a period of cold maceration, and then matured, also plot by plot, in oak, 35% of which is new. The first wine accounts for no more than 45% of the harvest to ensure that quality remains high, with second wine La Closerie de Malescasse assembled mainly from the younger vines.