Domaine de la Roche Aiguë, Hautes Côtes de Beaune La Lave 2021

La Lave is a deliciously crisp barrel-fermented white Burgundy from the cool Hautes Côtes de Beaune appellation. I have been looking at wines from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune appellation for a number of years. Previously, the cooler temperatures found at higher altitudes did not always allow the grapes to ripen sufficiently. But today I feel their time has come. Fast forward to a post global warming world and fresher climates are now an advantage. The hills above the main escarpment of the Côte D’Or, the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, are a promising hunting ground. A cool spot in a warming climate spells balance. So I was delighted to discover the lovely 2021 La Lave at Domaine de la Roche Aigüe. This 14.5ha domaine produces excellent white and red wines in Pommard, Meursault, Auxey-Duresses and the Hautes Côtes de Beaune. This chardonnay is made from a vineyard planted in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune on limestone soil with many big flat stones called laves, similar to those found in the Savigny-lès-Beaune premier cru vineyard Les Lavières, hence its name. They have an historic significance too. These natural flat stone slabs were used for their tombs by the Merovingians, "Kings of the Franks”, conquerors of Gaul from the middle of the 5th century until 751. One lave 5 metres high (2 metres above ground and 3 metres below) has been raised up in the vineyard and features on the label. The altitude and limestone soil make a refreshingly taut and mineral wine of just 12.5% which has been lightly enriched, and the mid-palate filled out, by barrel-fermentation and maturation therein, on its lees, for a year. Decant half an hour before serving at 12-14˚C, cool but not cold, to allow the wine to emerge from under its stone lave and glory in the limelight like a butterfly from its cocoon.