The defining character of the 2019 Burgundies is their extraordinary concentration and balance. Made from very low yields (approximately half a crop for whites, and 70% of a normal crop for reds), their density and intensity of flavour are seldom seen. The vintage is superb in both colours. Geographically and hierarchically there is widespread success.
Although this was statistically a very warm year, the flavours are within the normal Burgundian register. Some mitigating factors, outlined later, attempt to explain this.
The character of each terroir is preserved. Like all vintages of high maturity, the lesser vineyards which struggle to ripen in a cool year have done proportionately better, but not to the extent that the quality hierarchy is upset. There are some exceptional village wines this year. However, to be clear, these are very good but are not better than premiers crus. Some of the wines will be approachable young but will keep very well. However, I think these wines are...
The defining character of the 2019 Burgundies is their extraordinary concentration and balance. Made from very low yields (approximately half a crop for whites, and 70% of a normal crop for reds), their density and intensity of flavour are seldom seen. The vintage is superb in both colours. Geographically and hierarchically there is widespread success.
Although this was statistically a very warm year, the flavours are within the normal Burgundian register. Some mitigating factors, outlined later, attempt to explain this.
The character of each terroir is preserved. Like all vintages of high maturity, the lesser vineyards which struggle to ripen in a cool year have done proportionately better, but not to the extent that the quality hierarchy is upset. There are some exceptional village wines this year. However, to be clear, these are very good but are not better than premiers crus. Some of the wines will be approachable young but will keep very well. However, I think these wines are worth keeping in order to develop their full potential.
The only character that shows this is a year of high maturity is the alcohol levels, which are a little higher than usual. There are commonly between 13.5 and 14% and there are rare cases of wines at 14.5%. However, there is so much fruit concentration that one is virtually never aware of it.
I really like the 2019 vintage. These are dense and powerful wines, yet they have a certain tension. I think all Burgundy lovers, and especially those beginning their Burgundy journey, will enjoy them. Their concentrated flavours make them very approachable. Burgundy can make wines like this with controlled power, or more delicate wines in cooler years. The joy is to be found in the variety and uniqueness of each vintage. However, if you like very austere and delicate wines, these wines may not be for you.
White wines
It is difficult to go wrong in 2019. The whites are mineral and appley, and occasionally they reach into the white peach register. Only a few wines show very ripe characters and virtually never are they in the exotic, honeyed spectrum. The perceived acidity is fresh due to the relatively low pHs for this level of maturity. Again, it’s the concentration which is exceptional. I think the Chablis grands crus are remarkably good this year. All the grands crus are situated together on a hillside particularly rich in Kimmeridgian clay, which retains water, beneficial in a warm year, and gives structure to the wines which supports the concentrated fruit.
Value for money: the Máºconnais, Chalonnais wines like Montagny and entry-level Chablis remain good value. In terms of growers, look to Prudhon and Jean-Marc Vincent.
Red wines
These are uniformly good too. The quality of tannins in remarkably good. They are soft and suave in character. They wines have a mix of red and black fruit with no jamminess or raisiny flavours. The perceived acidity is fresh due to the relatively low pHs for this level of maturity.
I think it’s a very good year for village wines, and villages with clay soils. Village Nuits-Saint-Georges from Domaine de Bellene and Jean Chauvenet are exceptionally rich and dense with sweet tannins. Village Gevrey-Chambertins from Maume, Tawse and Mortet are outstanding and new supplier Lécheneaut have a very successful line-up of village wines. Cooler vineyards like Pernand-Vergelesses, or appellations with clay soils like Nuits and Pommard are also very successful.
Value for money: I think Marsannay, from both Sylvain Pataille and Château de Marsannay, offers great value for money, along with the lesser wines from Domaine de Bellene and Jadot, and the wines of Jean-Marc Vincent.
The weather
A frost on 5th April and a few hailstorms reduced the crop severely. Some poor weather at flowering further reduced the crop and caused millerandage (‘hens and chickens’) and coulure (shot berries). Apart from that, it is was generally an easy vintage for the growers with little disease. The small crop and warm weather produced the concentrated grapes which characterise the year.
A paradoxically well-balanced year: mitigating factors
Heat and drought
2019 was a year of variable temperatures, some heatwaves and some lows and some very dry spells. The timing of the heat was important as some of it did not directly translate into ripeness. Warm weather before véraison (grape colour change) has only a small effect on flavour ripeness. So the hot weather in February and March, before the vines had even flowered, advanced the cycle but did not directly affect the ripening of the grapes.
Heatwaves occurred in June and July where the temperature reached 40°C. But above about 30°C the vine goes into survival mode and shuts down. Because water is evaporating faster from its leaves than it can pump water from its reserves, it closes its leaf stomata to preserve its water and help it survive. Ripening
