Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2007 is no longer available

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Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2007

Red Wine from France - Burgundy
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A very well-proportioned red Burgundy, this needed time for its tannins to smooth out. Rich, yet fine, it is now revealing the rich kernel of fruit it contains.
is no longer available
Code: BU43711

Wine characteristics

  • Red Wine
  • Medium-bodied
  • Pinot Noir
  • 75cl
  • Now to 2028
  • 13.5% Alcohol
  • oak used but not v. noticeable
  • Cork, natural

Côte de Nuits

Taking its name from the town at its heart, Nuits-St-Georges, the Côte de Nuits is the northern half of the Côte d’Or, the escarpment upon which lie the greatest of Burgundy’s vineyards. Though there are a number of very fine white wines made it is the reds for which the Côte de Nuits is truly famous. Compared with the red wines of the Côte de Beaune the reds from Nuits have more sophisticated tannins, extra body and a more sumptuous texture than their southern counterparts.

The soils of the area are predominantly limestone of various types, which is excellent for drainage but also retention of water. The finest have a happy conjunction of silt and scree over marl with protected and sunny aspects in some of the side-valleys that cut into the escarpment from west to east. These cuts provide a number of meso- and microclimates as well as the various aspects. The best sites are neither at the top or the bottom of these slopes where the soils are too impoverished or too fertile...
Taking its name from the town at its heart, Nuits-St-Georges, the Côte de Nuits is the northern half of the Côte d’Or, the escarpment upon which lie the greatest of Burgundy’s vineyards. Though there are a number of very fine white wines made it is the reds for which the Côte de Nuits is truly famous. Compared with the red wines of the Côte de Beaune the reds from Nuits have more sophisticated tannins, extra body and a more sumptuous texture than their southern counterparts.

The soils of the area are predominantly limestone of various types, which is excellent for drainage but also retention of water. The finest have a happy conjunction of silt and scree over marl with protected and sunny aspects in some of the side-valleys that cut into the escarpment from west to east. These cuts provide a number of meso- and microclimates as well as the various aspects. The best sites are neither at the top or the bottom of these slopes where the soils are too impoverished or too fertile respectively. More generic wines are produced at the top and bottom of these slopes, with the Premiers Crus and Grand Crus in a band running along the upper middle.

The climate here is semi-continental, though northerly winds can temper a hot summer while warmer winds from the south can bring warmth. Westerly winds that ultimately originate in the Atlantic can bring rain but at its worst may deliver devastating hail in incredibly localised storms. There is a degree of unpredictability about vintages in Burgundy that mean more variation than in any other fine wine region.

The appellations that sit above the generic regional ACs in the hierarchy are Marsannay, Fixin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Echézaux and Nuits-St-George. Côte de Nuits –Villages is made from grapes grown at either end of the Côte, where the soils and sites are less impressive. Gevrey-Chambertin is a complete and balanced wine, full and harmonious. Wines from Nuits-St-Georges are the most tannic and, like Pommards, need long maturation. For many Vosne-Romanée is the summit. Its wines have beautiful velvety palates: dense and soft, sensuous and tactile. Chambolle-Musigny is the lightest yet one of the most fragrant wines of the Côte de Nuits. It is perhaps Nuits's equivalent of Volnay; a pretty, fine boned wine with exquisite perfume and a silky palate.
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Domaine Denis Mortet

The very high reputation of the estate is a testament to the late Denis Mortet. He was, quite simply, a genius but one who earned the respect of all Burgundian vignerons, leading by example and working harder than anyone in the vineyards. Excess buds would be picked off to maximise light and ventilation and prevent fungal diseases. Foliage would be painstakingly managed, to suit the needs of each vineyard. His aim was to achieve low yields of very ripe grapes to produce an opulent and concentrated style, not only from his portfolio of premier-cru holdings, which include Lavaux-Saint-Jacques and Champeaux in Gevrey, and Beaux-Bruns in Chambolle-Musigny, but also at village and AC Bourgogne levels, and in lighter crus like Marsanay. He was able to increase the size of his domaine as retiring vignerons would offer him the opportunity to buy their vines first, knowing their vines would be well looked after by a safe pair of hands. Tragically, despite his success and the esteem in which he was held both locally and internationally, depression led him to take his own life in 2006 at the age of just 51.

2006 was the first vintage of Arnaud Mortet, Denis’s son who found himself taking the reins at the tender age of 26. Arnaud has nothing but respect for his late father but is also very much his own man, with his own ideas. He has followed Denis’s example in the vineyard while making a few changes in the cellar, including a very sophisticated series of sorting tables (tables de tri) ...
The very high reputation of the estate is a testament to the late Denis Mortet. He was, quite simply, a genius but one who earned the respect of all Burgundian vignerons, leading by example and working harder than anyone in the vineyards. Excess buds would be picked off to maximise light and ventilation and prevent fungal diseases. Foliage would be painstakingly managed, to suit the needs of each vineyard. His aim was to achieve low yields of very ripe grapes to produce an opulent and concentrated style, not only from his portfolio of premier-cru holdings, which include Lavaux-Saint-Jacques and Champeaux in Gevrey, and Beaux-Bruns in Chambolle-Musigny, but also at village and AC Bourgogne levels, and in lighter crus like Marsanay. He was able to increase the size of his domaine as retiring vignerons would offer him the opportunity to buy their vines first, knowing their vines would be well looked after by a safe pair of hands. Tragically, despite his success and the esteem in which he was held both locally and internationally, depression led him to take his own life in 2006 at the age of just 51.

2006 was the first vintage of Arnaud Mortet, Denis’s son who found himself taking the reins at the tender age of 26. Arnaud has nothing but respect for his late father but is also very much his own man, with his own ideas. He has followed Denis’s example in the vineyard while making a few changes in the cellar, including a very sophisticated series of sorting tables (tables de tri) which allow only the best and ripest grapes into the vats. Mortet wines were always recognisable by a high level of extraction, and Arnaud’s view is that this could be reduced to make the wines less forbidding in their youth. Given the level of concentration in the grapes, thanks to very low yields, this has been an effective tactic which has improved the balance of the wines. Arnaud has also cut down the amount of new oak in the village wines, with only the premiers and grands crus seeing 100%. Judging by the quality of Arnaud’s vintages to date, the domaine is not only in safe hands but winning new fans, who like the new, more accessible style. It remains to be seen how the new-generation Mortet wines fare with time, for in this respect too Denis is a tough act to follow. A fully mature bottle of one of his classic Gevreys will amply and thrillingly reward the fair amount of patience required for it.
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Burgundy Vintage 2007

2007 represents a classic vintage, where ‘classic’ means ripeness is achieved between 12% and 13% potential alcohol, with intense aromas and a refreshing palate. However, there was a wide stylistic variation from producer to producer. One thing that can be said with some certainty is that the quality hierarchy of Burgundy was well respected in 2007 with extra depth and concentration at premier cru and grand cru level, particularly in Chablis. The best wines throughout were made by conscientious growers who carefully managed their vineyards and consequently harvested low yields of healthy, ripe grapes.

One of the warmest Aprils for 20 years led to early and successful flowering, which was to help in providing healthy ripe fruit at harvest. However, June, July and August were all cool with some rain and it was not until 24th August that really excellent weather arrived and changed the face of the vintage. Days were sunny and dry, with a welcome north wind helping to concentrate the...
2007 represents a classic vintage, where ‘classic’ means ripeness is achieved between 12% and 13% potential alcohol, with intense aromas and a refreshing palate. However, there was a wide stylistic variation from producer to producer. One thing that can be said with some certainty is that the quality hierarchy of Burgundy was well respected in 2007 with extra depth and concentration at premier cru and grand cru level, particularly in Chablis. The best wines throughout were made by conscientious growers who carefully managed their vineyards and consequently harvested low yields of healthy, ripe grapes.

One of the warmest Aprils for 20 years led to early and successful flowering, which was to help in providing healthy ripe fruit at harvest. However, June, July and August were all cool with some rain and it was not until 24th August that really excellent weather arrived and changed the face of the vintage. Days were sunny and dry, with a welcome north wind helping to concentrate the grapes by removing moisture. This did not prevent some outbreaks of rot in pinot noir from lower and damper sites but the sorting tables that are ubiquitous at the better producers these days saw the affected grapes removed before reaching the vats or barrels. Unusually the red grapes were picked before the whites as full flavour potential had been lagging behind potential alcohol in them. In truth, those who picked later in this vintage have tended to make the better wines.

The whites show excellent balance between minerality and ripeness after some concerns about the high acid levels before the later harvest was held back, and these wines should keep very well. Reds also show a good balance between pure pinot fruit and freshness.
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