Domaine Jean Chauvenet, Nuits-Saint-Georges 2014

Taking its name from the town at its heart, Nuits-St-Georges, the Côte de Nuits is the northern half of the Côte d’Or, the escarpment upon which lie the greatest of Burgundy’s vineyards. Though there are a number of very fine white wines made it is the reds for which the Côte de Nuits is truly famous. Compared with the red wines of the Côte de Beaune the reds from Nuits have more sophisticated tannins, extra body and a more sumptuous texture than their southern counterparts.

The soils of the area are predominantly limestone of various types, which is excellent for drainage but also retention of water. The finest have a happy conjunction of silt and scree over marl with protected and sunny aspects in some of the side-valleys that cut into the escarpment from west to east. These cuts provide a number of meso- and microclimates as well as the various aspects. The best sites are neither at the top or the bottom of these slopes where the soils are too impoverished or too fertile respectively. More generic wines are produced at the top and bottom of these slopes, with the Premiers Crus and Grand Crus in a band running along the upper middle.

The climate here is semi-continental, though northerly winds can temper a hot summer while warmer winds from the south can bring warmth. Westerly winds that ultimately originate in the Atlantic can bring rain but at its worst may deliver devastating hail in incredibly localised storms. There is a degree of unpredictability about vintages in Burgundy that mean more variation than in any other fine wine region.

The appellations that sit above the generic regional ACs in the hierarchy are Marsannay, Fixin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Echézaux and Nuits-St-George. Côte de Nuits –Villages is made from grapes grown at either end of the Côte, where the soils and sites are less impressive. Gevrey-Chambertin is a complete and balanced wine, full and harmonious. Wines from Nuits-St-Georges are the most tannic and, like Pommards, need long maturation. For many Vosne-Romanée is the summit. Its wines have beautiful velvety palates: dense and soft, sensuous and tactile. Chambolle-Musigny is the lightest yet one of the most fragrant wines of the Côte de Nuits. It is perhaps Nuits's equivalent of Volnay; a pretty, fine boned wine with exquisite perfume and a silky palate.

2014 White Burgundy is the best white vintage buyer Toby Morhall has tasted since he began tasting from barrel with the 1995 vintage. It is ripe and concentrated but doesn’t taste heavy. Virtually everything is good from Chablis to the Mâconnais. It will be delicious young and old.

The red wine scenario is a little more complicated. The Côte de Nuits has produced a delicious crop of ripe and friendly wines with soft tannins. After a serious of low yielding vintages, the vines had something in reserve and yields were a little high for great quality. They are better than the 2011s but do not appear to be as good as the 2012s or 2013s.

The Côte de Beaune again got hailed, this year on the 28 June which affected about 3000 ha of vineyards destroying between 10 and 90% of the crop. Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Savigny and Corton all got hit by the storm. These one has to judge wine by wine. Where the vines lost more crop than leaves the grapes concentrated and made ripe and rich wines. In the opposite scenario the wines can be a little tough. Between these two poles there are a multitude of styles.