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Grabenwerkstatt Brandstatt Grüner Veltliner, Wachau 2018
Brandstatt is the most westerly vineyard on the northern side of the Spitzer Graben, beyond which grapes will no longer ripen. It is, therefore, an extreme vineyard where only the bravest winemakers dare! The slope here is extremely steep and Grabenwerkstatt’s vines are around 70 years old. The resultant wine is intense, concentrated and focussed, with remarkable layers of flavour. 2018 was a warm vintage in Austria and this is a more forward and rich example of the wine than in subsequent vintages. Notes of quince, preserved lemon, peppery spice and a delicate hint of ginger combine on the nose and draw you into the glass. The structure here is remarkable, with ample acidity but plenty of palate weight and concentration of flavour too. Rich, rounded white-berry and stone-fruit flavour continue. A more baroque style than many of this producers’ other wines but a superb representation of the site and vintage.
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