Grecanico, Conte di Matàrocco Terre Siciliane 2021

This Sicilian cooperative has the benefit of 3000 hectares of vineyards owned by nearly 1000 growers in the west of the island. Spread across the communes of Marsala, Trapani, Salemi and Marzara dello Vallo, the vines’ proximity to the sea means that cool breezes help ameliorate the heat of the Mediterranean sun, while big diurnal temperature swings mean that the grapes ripen optimally and retain freshness. Even the smack of salt in the sea air plays a role, helping to prevent the onset of any problems with rot. With so many growers each vineyard plot is small, allowing for hand-picking in all of them and 80% of the vines are farmed organically with the remainder in the process of conversion. Once picked the grapes are quickly sent to the winery at Gurgo, just a few kilometres east of Marsala itself where each areas fruit is vinified separately in stainless-steel or glass-lined cement tanks before being blended, with some assemblages seeing oak, be it large botti or, for the best cuvées, barriques. Like many Sicilian cooperatives they sell some of their wine in bulk, but they are ambitious and have plans in hand to bottle everything they make under their own name, retaining absolute control over quality.