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Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Rouge Premier Cru Le Passetemps 2017

Red Wine from France - Burgundy
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Red Burgundy with a really intense and expressive nose with pretty fruit on the palate. This comes from a dense vineyard of 14,000 vines/ha (10,000 is normal) planted in 2004, now producing fruit of impressive complexity (and rivalling this domaine's old-vine Gravières wine)
Price: £37.00 Bottle
Price: £222.00 Case of 6
In Stock
Code: BU71521

Wine characteristics

  • Red Wine
  • Medium-bodied
  • Pinot Noir
  • 75cl
  • Now to 2030
  • 13.5% Alcohol
  • oak used but not v. noticeable
  • Cork, diam

Côte de Beaune

The Côte de Beaune runs from Ladoix-Serrigny in the north to Cheilly lè Maranges in the south, on the southern escarpment of the Côte d’Or. Beaune is the town at its heart. The most famous wines of the area are white, but many excellent reds are produced.

The soils of the area are predominantly mixtures of clay and limestone of various types, which is excellent for drainage but also retention of water. The hillsides here, split and riven by streams and side-valleys, provide a number of meso- and microclimates as well as various aspects ranging from east-facing to south and south-west facing. The best sites are neither at the top or the bottom of these slopes where the soils are too impoverished or too fertile respectively. More generic wines are produced at the top and bottom of these slopes, with the Premiers Crus and Grand Crus in a band running along the upper middle. Soils with more limestone suit chardonnay more than pinot, hence the number of famous white burgundies produced...
The Côte de Beaune runs from Ladoix-Serrigny in the north to Cheilly lè Maranges in the south, on the southern escarpment of the Côte d’Or. Beaune is the town at its heart. The most famous wines of the area are white, but many excellent reds are produced.

The soils of the area are predominantly mixtures of clay and limestone of various types, which is excellent for drainage but also retention of water. The hillsides here, split and riven by streams and side-valleys, provide a number of meso- and microclimates as well as various aspects ranging from east-facing to south and south-west facing. The best sites are neither at the top or the bottom of these slopes where the soils are too impoverished or too fertile respectively. More generic wines are produced at the top and bottom of these slopes, with the Premiers Crus and Grand Crus in a band running along the upper middle. Soils with more limestone suit chardonnay more than pinot, hence the number of famous white burgundies produced here.

The climate here is semi-continental, though northerly winds can temper a hot summer while warmer winds from the south can bring warmth. Westerly winds that ultimately originate in the Atlantic can bring rain but at its worst may deliver devastating hail in incredibly localised storms. There is a degree of unpredictability about vintages in Burgundy.

Pinot noir and chardonnay are the two permitted grapes of any significance, though Aligoté is grown occasionally for crisp, mouth-watering whites that are often used to make kir, and some generic Bourgogne or Crémant can be made with pinot blanc, pinot gris and beurrot can be made.

The appellations to be found in the Côte de Beaune are as follows: Ladoix, Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton , Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Savigny-lès Beaune, Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Monthélie, Auxey-Duresses, Saint-Romain, Meursault, Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay and Maranges

Côte de Beaune-Villages and Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Beaune are also made. The former is solely for red wines and the latter includes some whites as well. Both are mostly from vineyards on the top of the escarpment and some represent good value for early drinking Burgundy.

Côte de Beaune wines are generally lighter than those from the Côte de Nuits. Beaunes are soft and round, Volnays fine and silky. Pommards are the exception: due to more clay in the soil, they can be notably tannic and in need of considerable bottle age. The greatest of all white Burgundies, Le Montrachet, is made here between Chassagne and Puligny.
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Domaine Anne-Marie and Jean-Marc Vincent

Jean-Marc Vincent and his wife, Anne-Marie, are dedicated growers. Jean-Marc, after living in Alsace, returned home to Santenay to take back the family vineyards developed by his grandfather. A superb 1947 Santenay (which I was lucky enough to taste in 2010 and is a magnificently rich and powerful wine, still vigorous!) made by his grandfather inspired Jean-Marc, and gave him an insight into the huge potential of Santenay.

He has planted new vineyards at high density (12,000 instead of 10,000 vines/ha) and has a unique pruning system which is a partial cross between cordon de royat and guyot double, and many clever practices and techniques to control the vigour of the vine. He looks for low yields in both red (35hl/ha) and white vineyards (45hl/ha). These are very low for modest appellations and you can taste the concentration borne of low yields in the wines.

He has pinot noir vines in Beaurepaire, Passetemps and Gravières, and chardonnay vines in Santenay, Beaurepaire and Auxey-Duresses Les Hautés. He balances wines from his own domaine with a small négociant activity, and has some Puligny 'en fermage', a 25-year rental agreement, and buys in some St Aubin Les Combes as must. He uses casks from his friend Stéphane Chassin, the standard 228 litre for the reds but a larger 300 litre for the whites to reduce oxygen ingress and maintain a greater freshness in the wines.

Toby Morrhall

Burgundy Vintage 2017

Reds: a year that will give enormous pleasure.

2017 produced exuberantly fruity wines with medium structure,
so that the aromas are not suppressed by their tannins. It was
potentially high yielding for pinot noir and the best growers
managed the yield and got ripe yet fresh grapes. The warm year
produced an early harvest which took place between 2nd and
15th September. A variety of red styles were made: the weather was good at vintage so there is a spread of picking dates. Some are fresh and bright, while the later-picked wines are rounder and sweeter.

Both the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits were successful,
making wines that in style and quality surpass 2014, are riper than 2013 yet are lighter than the really concentrated and great 2016s and 2015s.

Whites: aromatic, ripe but fresh

Chablis: bright and fresh

The weather was coolest in Chablis, leading to bright and fresh
wines close to the great 2014s in style and character. In the last
fortnight of April frost ravaged the vineyards, reducing...
Reds: a year that will give enormous pleasure.

2017 produced exuberantly fruity wines with medium structure,
so that the aromas are not suppressed by their tannins. It was
potentially high yielding for pinot noir and the best growers
managed the yield and got ripe yet fresh grapes. The warm year
produced an early harvest which took place between 2nd and
15th September. A variety of red styles were made: the weather was good at vintage so there is a spread of picking dates. Some are fresh and bright, while the later-picked wines are rounder and sweeter.

Both the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits were successful,
making wines that in style and quality surpass 2014, are riper than 2013 yet are lighter than the really concentrated and great 2016s and 2015s.

Whites: aromatic, ripe but fresh

Chablis: bright and fresh

The weather was coolest in Chablis, leading to bright and fresh
wines close to the great 2014s in style and character. In the last
fortnight of April frost ravaged the vineyards, reducing yield but
not affecting quality. Some premiers crus like Montée de Tonnerre and Mont de Milieu produced less than half a crop. The grands crus were partially protected by frost prevention measures.

Côte d’Or: excellent concentration and good structure.

Many vines here are low yielding due to coulure (poor fruit set
which reduces quantity, but not quality) and some heat stress,
which may have conserved acidity. The summer was warm and
so the moderate crop ripened quickly and was picked early at
the end of August or early September.
Mâconnais: very good wines from the best growers
It was warmest here and yields probably were at their highest,
yet the good producers controlled this and picked early to
preserve ripeness, making for very attractive wines.
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