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Beaujolais L'Ancien Les Terres Dorées, Jean-Paul Brun 2020
Red Wine from France - Beaujolais
Perfumed and juicy, this is lovely Beaujolais from a top producer with vines in the famous ‘Pierres Dorées' of southern part of the region, so called because of the golden-ochre stone used in local construction.
Price: £11.95 Bottle
Price: £143.00 Case of 12
- Red Wine
- Drinking now
- 13.5% Alcohol
- no oak influence
- Cork, natural
Jean-Paul Brun is undoubtedly the best-known producer in the south of Beaujolais. This is the so-called Pays des Pierres Dorées, named after the golden coloured limestone, much quarried for building material. Jean-Paul is based in Charnay, a village just north of Lyon.
Viticulture is important here although it shares the hillsides with other forms of agriculture. Most of the wines are simple and sold as Beaujolais Nouveau, but Jean-Paul is the exception, and aims for a more complex, food-friendly style.
He started in 1977 with just four hectares, and now has 30, as well as 15 hectares of vineyard plots on the granite soils of some of the Beaujolais crus – Fleurie, Moulin à Vent, Morgon and Côte de Brouilly. The vineyard is in the process of conversion to biodynamic viticulture.
Particular specialities include his chardonnay, which accounts for eight hectares of his vines, as well as L’Ancien, a gamay made from old vines.
Jean Paul’s winemaking is much more Burgundian and traditional than most of his neighbours, with wines fermenting in vats before ageing in cement or oak. He believes in minimal intervention, and chooses not to add industrial yeasts, which are often responsible for the ‘bubblegum’ style of some generic Beaujolais. Nor does he practise chaptalisation (adding sugar to the must to increase alcohol), which explains why alcohol levels are lower.
Gamay is a grape with a flair for light reds. And this is a good one, with perfumed red cherry and berry fruits and a lustrous finish.
2018 vintage reviews
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