Calcaia Orvieto Classico Superiore Muffa Nobile Barberani 2016 50cl Organic is no longer available

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Calcaia Orvieto Classico Superiore Muffa Nobile Barberani 2016 50cl Organic

3.666666700 star rating 3 Reviews
Calcaia Orvieto Classico Superiore Muffa Nobile Barberani 2016 50cl Organic
is no longer available
Code: IT28621

Wine characteristics

  • White Wine
  • 7 - Dessert sweetness
  • Trebbiano
  • 50cl
  • Now to 2028
  • 10.5% Alcohol
  • oak used but not v. noticeable
  • Cork, natural
  • Organic

Central Italy

The large Central Italy region embraces Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria, Marche, Abruzzo and Molise and Lazio. Geographically Central Italy is split by the imposing Apennine mountain range that runs the length of the centre of Italy like a slightly curved spine dividing, for example, Tuscany and Umbria from Emilia-Romagna and Le Marche. While there is the usual diversity of grape varieties when you drill down in to the vineyards of these regions, one grape variety dominates – sangiovese, whether it stands alone or is blended.

At the heart of Tuscany is Chianti, spreading from north of Florence to south of Siena. Rolling green forested hills of captivating beauty characterise much of the Chianti area with vineyards sometimes planted at over 500 metres. The wines are dominated by the sangiovese grape supported by canaiolo, colorino, mammolo and ciliegiolo of the traditional varieties of the region but with the additional weight and structure of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot...
The large Central Italy region embraces Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria, Marche, Abruzzo and Molise and Lazio. Geographically Central Italy is split by the imposing Apennine mountain range that runs the length of the centre of Italy like a slightly curved spine dividing, for example, Tuscany and Umbria from Emilia-Romagna and Le Marche. While there is the usual diversity of grape varieties when you drill down in to the vineyards of these regions, one grape variety dominates – sangiovese, whether it stands alone or is blended.

At the heart of Tuscany is Chianti, spreading from north of Florence to south of Siena. Rolling green forested hills of captivating beauty characterise much of the Chianti area with vineyards sometimes planted at over 500 metres. The wines are dominated by the sangiovese grape supported by canaiolo, colorino, mammolo and ciliegiolo of the traditional varieties of the region but with the additional weight and structure of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot which are now permitted.

Other great wines from Tuscany are Brunello di Montalcino (‘brunello’ being a very localised clone of sangiovese, and the only permitted grape), Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (from the town of Montepulciano and nothing to do with the montepulciano grape; Vino Nobile is again made from sangiovese) and the so-called Supertuscan blends of several grape varieties, some of which are not permitted under DOC rules in areas such as Brunello. The most famous of these Supertuscans are Sassicaia and Ornellaia, both of which are essentially Bordeaux -style blends from Bolgheri close to the Tuscan coast in the west. The region, partly with the impetus of these regulation bucking blends, has been a driving force in improving quality in the region and consequently across Italy.

Umbria to the south of Tuscany has developed an impressive reputation for its wines, such as the aromatic, tannic but delicious sagrantino from vineyards around Montefalco. Here too sangiovese is widely grown, making impressive Torgiano and blends together with varieties like merlot and cabernet. Higher ground in the north is cooler than the southern zone. Orvieto lies almost between the two in the west of Umbria. The wines of Orvieto are beginning to find their feet once more after decades of underperformance now that many growers are focussing on the grechetto grape that had once been ubiquitous but which had been pushed aside by the higher cropping but far less interesting procanico (aka trebbiano Toscano).

Lazio is the region around Rome which is struggling to creep out from the shadow of the dull wines that historically fed the thirst of a ready market in the Eternal City. Basically, there was too little incentive to change. Now there are a number of producers working hard to make Frascati of real character by improving their clones and their methods and by lowering yields.

Across the Apennines from Umbria is Le Marche with its mountainous national parks and sunny Adriatic coast. The best white wines are the two verdicchios, dei Castelli di Jesi and di Matelica, with the latter making the more characterful examples from its higher altitudes. Pecorino grapes from zones to the south produce fruity, interesting white wines with real potential to rival the best verdicchio. Reds are improving all the time, including Rosso Piceno (sangiovese with montepulciano) and Rosso Conero (montepulciano).

North of Le Marche is the region around foodie Bologna, Emilia-Romagna. Home to Parmesan cheese, Parma ham and balsamic vinegar, the region has not developed a similarly impressive canon of wines to rival its reputation for fine foods. Much is unimpressive but the best sangiovese di Romagna from south-east of Bologna can be excellent, and as with elsewhere in Italy there are a growing number of growers and winemakers intent on improvement. The wine best known to British consumers is Lambrusco. Sadly the association many will have is with sweetened characterless froth from the 1970s and 1980s but the Lambrusco drunk by the Bolognese is very different and we are starting to see its appetising acidity and bracing bite, designed to accompany the salty hams, tangy cheeses and rich meat sauces of its home region, reach the UK.

As with Le Marche the vineyards of Abruzzo are squeezed between the great mass of the Apennines and the Adriatic, and the mountains have influenced the character of the Abruzzese and their food. To match their hearty dishes they drink montepulciano d’Abruzzo, invariably gutsy and full of lively red fruits and a Society wine of many years standing. Rosés such as Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo are also becoming increasingly well known for their value and constantly improving quality when growers lower yields and winemakers take them seriously. Further south is the little known Molise region where montepulciano, aglianico and trebbiano grapes make characterful, rustic reds and whites. The Biferno DOC was created in the 1980s and there are producers here who are making some very promising examples.
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Barberani

Barberani is one of Umbria’s most respected producers, famous for its clean, pure-tasting wines. The vineyards lie on hills overlooking Lake Corbara, close to the city of Orvieto in the south-west of the province, which lies south of Tuscany in Italy’s centre. Of the estate’s 80-odd hectares, 50 are dedicated to vineyards and olive groves. The rest is given over to cereals and holiday cottages, making this an authentic place to visit for a spot of agriturismo. The close proximity of the lake below helps regulate the microclimate here by preventing extreme variations in temperature.

History
Advised by consultant oenologist Maurizio Castelli, the estate, which is organically farmed and certified, is renowned for its clean, pure-tasting wines. By law, Orvieto is made from a combination of five grape varieties, of which the finest is grechetto, a Barberani speciality. Around 20,000 bottles of it are produced in every vintage under the designation of Grechetto Umbria IGT, which, in our view tastes not unlike a decent white Burgundy.

The wines
Barberani also produce a fragrant dessert wine called Calcaia, from trebbiano di Toscana and grechetto grapes concentrated by noble rot (muffa nobile). It is similar to Sauternes in style but with a characteristic lightness of touch. More recently high class barrel-aged reds have been introduced, using sangiovese, merlot and cabernet. These can rival Tuscany’s best in quality, but not in price.

Sustainability
Soil...

Barberani is one of Umbria’s most respected producers, famous for its clean, pure-tasting wines. The vineyards lie on hills overlooking Lake Corbara, close to the city of Orvieto in the south-west of the province, which lies south of Tuscany in Italy’s centre. Of the estate’s 80-odd hectares, 50 are dedicated to vineyards and olive groves. The rest is given over to cereals and holiday cottages, making this an authentic place to visit for a spot of agriturismo. The close proximity of the lake below helps regulate the microclimate here by preventing extreme variations in temperature.

History
Advised by consultant oenologist Maurizio Castelli, the estate, which is organically farmed and certified, is renowned for its clean, pure-tasting wines. By law, Orvieto is made from a combination of five grape varieties, of which the finest is grechetto, a Barberani speciality. Around 20,000 bottles of it are produced in every vintage under the designation of Grechetto Umbria IGT, which, in our view tastes not unlike a decent white Burgundy.

The wines
Barberani also produce a fragrant dessert wine called Calcaia, from trebbiano di Toscana and grechetto grapes concentrated by noble rot (muffa nobile). It is similar to Sauternes in style but with a characteristic lightness of touch. More recently high class barrel-aged reds have been introduced, using sangiovese, merlot and cabernet. These can rival Tuscany’s best in quality, but not in price.

Sustainability
Soil health is a key priority for Barberani, where they use controlled growth of grass to increase the organic content of the soil. This creates healthy, natural competition with the vines, thus naturally governing the strength of the plants. Each year, they also sow a mixture of seeds to further enrich the soil. Only 55 of the total 100 hectares of the estate is under vine, which encourages biodiversity. 30 hectares are given over to forest, which are managed with the same dedication shown to the vines. The company estimates that this area sequesters 240 tonnes of CO2 a year.

This attention to sustainability is also carried on in the winery, which makes use of ‘Aliant’ technology. This means that the roof structure amplifies the natural sunlight from outdoors, giving outstanding diffused lighting during the day that allows them to make huge savings on the electricity used for illumination. Approximately 95% of the lighting in the winery comes exclusively from naturally amplified sunlight.

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Italy 2016 Vintage Central

2016 was a stunning year for reds in most of the vineyards of Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, as well as across the Veneto. In short, the north of Italy enjoyed sunny, warm and dry conditions at harvest (September and Ocotber) after a cooler than average summer, and brought in an excellent crop of slowly evenly ripened grapes and made very good wines.

The south of Italy is a less obviously happy picture, or at least more of a patchwork, with some areas suffering rain at inappropriate times, often when the harvest needed to be brought in. There had already been difficulties in the spring in the Abruzzi and Campania (some areas had frost) and Umbria suffered hail. Then in September rains came and made it tricky for the later ripening red varieties in Campania and Basilicata. However, the summer had been more even in Puglia and despite some September rains here it had little effect and the wines are very good. Sicily too had a good vintage.

2015 vintage reviews
2014 vintage reviews

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