Parcelas Ecológico Monastrell, Yecla 2019

Bodegas Castaño has been the one producer to change the face of Yecla, a tiny DO which has historically been synonymous with very old-fashioned, ‘overcooked’ red wines that have never made popular exports. It has been run by the Castaño family for three generations, and is currently headed by the dynamic and charismatic Daniel Castaño. It was his father, the brilliant Ramón Castaño, who really brought the bodega the reputation it deserves, and who was the first to export their wines internationally back in the 1990s.

It is this bodega that creates Castillo del Barón, an unpretentious range of wines that expresses what modern production techniques can do to showcase this region’s brilliant local grape varieties, in particular monastrell and macabeo.

They own over 500ha of vineyards, but also buy in some grapes from trusted Yecla growers. To maintain their rigorous quality controls, the Castaño viticulturist is actively involved in managing the growing of not only the property’s own grapes, but also those they source externally. They grow several varieties, among them garnacha, tempranillo, merlot, syrah, chardonnay, and macabeo; however, it is monastrell that reigns here, making up 70% of their vineyard area.

The reason for this is simple: monastrell (known in France as mourvèdre) is perfectly suited to Yecla’s hot Mediterranean climate and frequently arid weather conditions. It also grows best at between 600-900m altitude, and Yecla is blessed with being positioned on a high plateau that reaches 800m altitude at its highest point. The Castaños’ monastrell is mostly planted on bush-trained vines – many of which are pre-phylloxera – spaced widely apart which help prevent vines from facing too much competition during the driest weather.

The winery was built by Ramón, Daniel’s father, in 1950, and since the 1980s it has undergone vast modernisation, starting with a top-of-the-range bottling machine. They now boast temperature-controlled vats, refrigerated storage for pre-fermentation maceration, and different-sized vats to allow experimentation and more selective vinification. Daniel is a very hands-on, passionate head of the company, who really cares about where his wine is sold and the people who sell it. His clients include Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa restaurant.

Along with garnacha, monastrell is one of Spain’s best grapes for honest, juicy, easy-drinking wines in which you get a lot of fruit for your money. The Castaños exemplify this perfectly, aiming to showcase their monastrell at its ripe, deeply coloured, fruity best, often with a hint of earthiness for added interest.