Riesling, Domaine Dopff au Moulin 2018

The history of making sparkling wine in Alsace is relatively short. It was Julien Dopff who became intrigued by the possibilities of making sparkling wines after seeing a demonstration of the Champenois method of production at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1900, and he pioneered the first Crémant d’Alsace a couple of years later. It was a great idea and one that took root. It has since become an important part of the Alsace wine industry, and largely thanks to the Dopff family.

The Dopffs have been in Riquewihr since the 17th century, first as coopers and then as winemakers from the middle of the 19th century when Jean Dopff took up that profession. Since that time the family have built up their domaine in and around the impossibly attractive Alsace village of Riquewihr.

It is now Etienne-Arnaud Dopff who, with his wife Marlene, is working hard at the domaine to enhance the reputation earned by their forbears. They own 70 hectares of vines, mostly around Riquewihr itself, on south facing slopes on the Schoenenbourg where riesling is king. They also hold land in Hunawihr, Mittelwihr, the Hardt of Colmar and Brand at Turckheim. As well as making wine from their own vines they are one of the largest négociant businesses in Alsace, buying grapes from over 600 growers.

Pinot blanc is the mainstay of sparkling wine production here, supported by pinot auxerrois, pinot noir and chardonnay, and whole, hand-picked bunches are gently pressed. Only the free run juice is used, and the initial fermentation is in stainless steel before the wine is fermented a second time in bottle, the so called méthode traditionnelle. The bottles are stored for a further 14 to 24 months before disgorgement, after which they have another period in the cellars before they are ready to leave. The Cuvée Julien, familiar to members of The Society, is generally a blend of 50% pinot blanc and 50% auxerrois.