Vergelegen Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2021

Vergelegen, meaning 'situated far away', was granted to the Governor of the Cape Willem van der Stel in 1700, making it an older estate even than many in the ‘old’ world. Lost in the suburbs of Somerset West, this large estate is also one of the Cape’s most beautiful, with sensitively restored Cape Dutch buildings (housing excellent restaurants and tasting room) set in stunning gardens contrasting with the starkly modern hilltop winery. The estate also has the largest private nature reserve dedicated to local flora and fauna, thanks to their dedication to conservation on the farm.

Owned by mining giant Anglo American, Vergelegen has never lacked investment and the quality first philosophy made it one of the first in the Cape to produce cleaner, modern-style wines, from the late ‘80s (1991 was the first bottling), first under Martin Meinert, and now, and since 1998, in the capable hands of long-term Cellarmaster André van Rensburg .

One of the big personalities of the Cape wine industry, André is uncompromising on many things but especially quality, from the vineyard to the cellars and the watchword here is harmony. Consultant Michel Rolland is working with André, particularly on the merlot grape, to further refine the red wines and at blending, in which he is a renowned specialist. Simplicity is sought to allow the quality of the rigorously selected fruit to do the talking, but the cellar team have all the tools they may need at their disposal, including an impressive, well-stocked barrel cellar and, more recently, drone-mapped vineyard analysis.

The vineyards are 100% virus free, planted mostly, according to André, to the 'two great Bordeaux varietals cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc'. Around 60% of the surface is planted to cabernet sauvignon (though only c. 30% of the wine in bottle), followed by sauvignon blanc, merlot, cabernet franc, semillon, shiraz, chardonnay, petit verdot, malbec. The soils are 400-600 million years old here, decomposed granite, so not very fertile.

The wines are consistently among the Cape's best and offer the added advantage of up to five years cellaring before release.