Xinomavro Naoussa, Dalamára 2021

Kostis Dalamára's family have been making growing grapes, making wine and distilling the spirit tsipouro in Naoussa, in the far north of Greece, since 1840, helping the region to become the first Greek appellation recognised in law, in 1971. Kostis is the sixth generation here, working alongside his wife Maria. Having studied at Beaune he went on to work in Burgundy, Alsace and Catalonia and now farms his 6 hectares close to the town of Naoussa itself, working organically since 1996 and biodynamically (although not certified) since 2008, growing mostly native red xinomavro grapes grown on south facing slopes of the eastern foothills of Mount Vermio. Among his holdings he oversees a Greek ‘grand cru’, his Paliokalias vineyard, planted at around 300 metres above sea level, where some of the vines are over 85 years old. It provides very fine raw materials for his excellent, ageworthy red wine of the same name fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel and aged in 300-litre oak barrels for a year. Having said that, and although Paliokalias is the prize stud in the stable, his straight Naoussa is one of the finest examples available. His commitment to eco-friendly practices means that their winery runs 100% off of solar energy, and their working farm on the estate provides fertiliser for the vines. Kostis is dedicated to running an entirely self-sufficient winery and is one of the young stars of Greek wine.