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Well-balanced Hungarian red with ripe, scented fruit, and an excellent follow-on to the popular 2012 vintage. Clearly the distinctive kékfrankos grape (the Austrian blaufränkisch) flourishes in the Villany district of south Hungary.
Product Code: HU1011
"I just didn’t get this. Is it a full bodied fleurie? Is it a grape flavoured medicine. One of my worst buys."
The Field 20th Apr 2018
"A rich, ripe red from
southern Hungary, just one of many at The Wine Society. - Jonathan Ray"
The Times 21st Oct 2017
"… gorgeous, smoky, plum skin and spiced black
cherry-stashed ... Jane MacQuitty"
"I got this in the spirit of looking to expand my horizons. Kekrankos, I think, got drunk a lot in the 1970s in the UK but not much since then.
How was it? Balanced, savoury, digestible... but IMO just a touch boring.
I opened it last Friday night and spent the evening regretting I wasn't drinking the Chateau Muret 2012 from elsewhere in the Society's list, which is in a similar price bracket and just delicious.
This is okay, but just not very exciting. Or maybe it was me?"
Rev Robert Stanier (02-Nov-2016)
View all products by Heumann
Erhard Heumann is originally from Bavaria in southern Germany and worked as a banker in Zurich for many years before retiring. So how did he and his wife Evelyne end up owning a winery in Villany, not all that far from Hungary’s border with Croatia? It all began when Erhard’s father-in-law visited the area on business in 1995 and returned to announce to his no doubt surprised family that he had acquired a lease on a wine estate in Hungary. Since 1995 the family, from beginnings as hobby winemakers, have built up an estate of their own as well as buying in grapes from local growers.The couple live in a house in the centre of their seven hectares of vineyards, a mixture of loess and clay with some limestone and dolomite, all on south-facing slopes. They have planted the vines at a high density to encourage lower yields, and harvest at a much lower yield than required by the Districtus Hungariucus Controllatum system (the local appellation controlee equivalent) requires them to. 90% of their wines qualify for the DAC designation. They grow a variety of grapes including the local kekfrankos and the French introduction cabernet franc and from these two they make what are arguably their best wines. Fermentation is in stainless steel and the wines then spend some time in a mix of old and new oak for 12 to 14 months before bottling.Villany is widely regarded as Hungary’s premium red-wine-growing region and the Heumanns are doing their level best to prove it.
The Romans cultivated vines in Pannonia from the second century AD and despite a period of Ottoman Muslim rule in parts of Hungary during the 16th and 17th centuries and the dead hand of state control in the second half of the 20th Hungary has adapted well to the demands of a modern free market, and particularly an export driven one. Since the fall of communism in the late 1980s the Hungarian wine industry has garnered foreign and local investment and adopted modern technological and viticultural practises to improve the quality of the wines. The principal wine growing regions sit between 45o and 50o latitude, similar to Burgundy to the west. The continental climate of landlocked Hungary is one of extremely cold winters and long, hot summers followed by prolonged, usually sunny autumns. Lake Balaton, Europe’s largest lake, provides a moderating effect on winter and summer temperatures, as does the Tisza River that glides past the Tokaji region, the Neusiedlersee that the border region of Sopron shares with Austria, and the Danube for the winemaking areas of the north such as Transdanubia.The vineyards are spread all over the country so soil types are not homogenous over such a large area, but one common theme is the volcanic nature of many. The Great Plain area where much of Hungary’s more generic offerings originate is mostly sand and loess. Tokaji is Hungary’s most famous wine. Recent investment has paid dividends in re-establishing a reputation for greatness that was forged in medieval times and diluted during Communist rule when all wines were exported through a monopoly little interested in providing quality and these great sweet wines might even be pasteurised. The confluence of the river Tisza and a smaller, cooler tributary provides the conditions for the creation of the ‘Breath of God’, or morning mists, in the same way the merging of the Cerons and the Gironde do in Sauternes. This in turn encourages the formation of botrytis cinerea, a fungus that feeds on the moisture in a grape, concentrating the sugars and changing its structure. The result is some of the best and most luscious sweet wines in the world, made from the indigenous furmint, harslevelu, oremus or zeta, and koverszolo varieties, together with muscat.In the south-west, on the border with Croatia, the Villány-Siklós region is fast developing a reputation for excellent wines, and in the north-east is the Eger region, modern home to the famous and sturdy Bull’s Blood, arguably Hungary’s second most famous wine though not necessarily the origin of the widely exported brand of the last century.Although many international varieties such as cabernet sauvignon and franc, pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc have been planted and are making excellent wines, the Hungarians have retained many native central European vines. Kadarka, kekfrankos (aka blaufränkisch), irsai oliver and the aforementioned furmint and harslevelu have a long history and can make characterful wines.The Hungarian authorities have developed an appellation system modelled on the French and Austrian versions and 22 regions are currently recognised.
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