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Red Pernand is something of a marathon runner – it seems lean and sinewy but can go the distance, putting on weight as it matures.
Product Code: BU58291
View all products by Domaine Rollin Père et Fils
A family domaine run by Rémi Rollin and his son Simon who are the third and fourth generation respectively to make wine in the little village of Pernand-Vergelesses. It all began when Rémi’s grandfather Maurice slowly accumulated plots in the appellation while working as a vineyard worker. His son Maurice took them over in 1955 and added more parcels when he could and bottled some of his wines for the first time. 1976 saw Rémi join him and Simon joined Rémi in 2003. This is very much a family affair, with all the vineyard and winery work done by father and son across 12 hectares, 8 of which are owned by the Rollins. Five communes and fourteen appellations are represented in their range, including several premiers crus in both red and white, including a small plot in the Ile de Vergelesses premier cru first purchased by Maurice in the 1930s, and part of the Corton Charlemagne grand cru more recently acquired. Their wines are very fine, with the potential for cellaring.
The Côte de Beaune runs from Ladoix-Serrigny in the north to Cheilly lè Maranges in the south, on the southern escarpment of the Côte d’Or. Beaune is the town at its heart. The most famous wines of the area are white, but many excellent reds are produced. The soils of the area are predominantly mixtures of clay and limestone of various types, which is excellent for drainage but also retention of water. The hillsides here, split and riven by streams and side-valleys, provide a number of meso- and microclimates as well as various aspects ranging from east-facing to south and south-west facing. The best sites are neither at the top or the bottom of these slopes where the soils are too impoverished or too fertile respectively. More generic wines are produced at the top and bottom of these slopes, with the Premiers Crus and Grand Crus in a band running along the upper middle. Soils with more limestone suit chardonnay more than pinot, hence the number of famous white burgundies produced here.The climate here is semi-continental, though northerly winds can temper a hot summer while warmer winds from the south can bring warmth. Westerly winds that ultimately originate in the Atlantic can bring rain but at its worst may deliver devastating hail in incredibly localised storms. There is a degree of unpredictability about vintages in Burgundy.Pinot noir and chardonnay are the two permitted grapes of any significance, though Aligoté is grown occasionally for crisp, mouth-watering whites that are often used to make kir, and some generic Bourgogne or Crémant can be made with pinot blanc, pinot gris and beurrot can be made. The appellations to be found in the Côte de Beaune are as follows: Ladoix, Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton , Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Savigny-lès Beaune, Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Monthélie, Auxey-Duresses, Saint-Romain, Meursault, Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay and Maranges Côte de Beaune-Villages and Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Beaune are also made. The former is solely for red wines and the latter includes some whites as well. Both are mostly from vineyards on the top of the escarpment and some represent good value for early drinking Burgundy.Côte de Beaune wines are generally lighter than those from the Côte de Nuits. Beaunes are soft and round, Volnays fine and silky. Pommards are the exception: due to more clay in the soil, they can be notably tannic and in need of considerable bottle age. The greatest of all white Burgundies, Le Montrachet, is made here between Chassagne and Puligny.
While there is much to enjoy in 2013, there was considerable weather variation and generalisations are difficult so sub regions are treated separately below.In the Côte de Nuits succulent, fresh and lifted red wines were made with sweet but unobtrusive tannins and modest alcohol levels. There is enough structure here for mid to long-term maturation thanks to the small size of the crop and the protracted ripening time that the vines enjoyed. Also significant was the preponderance of millerandage, when berries remain small after flowering, which means there is a higher ratio of skin to pulp and few if any pips. The Côte de Beaune was variable due to hail. As with the Côte de Nuits poor flowering also affected the crop, but it was the hail that caused devastation on 23rd July, in a swathe from Ladoix to Meursault. It has led to losses between 40-100% but overall has meant a halving of the crop. However, there was enough time for some leaves to grow and there was time for damaged grapes to drop and wounds on the vine to heal and still allow time for the fruit remaining to ripen. Reds are fresh and vibrant, and this is a vintage to trade up to premier cru for the greater ripeness that such sites can achieve. Whites in the Côte de Beaune can be lovely, with moderate alcohols and a fresh mineral style. Saint-Aubin, Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault all performed well.In Chablis the best wines were made from grapes picked before the storm of 5th and 6th October. Those that picked thus have made taut, firm and mineral wines that are classic Chablis. Some who picked after the storm suffered from attacks of botrytis and though a little of such an infection can add a honeyed nuance to the wines too much, can override the subtleties and minerality that one looks for in good Chablis.Mâcon performed very well in 2013. There were fewer problems of flowering, no hail and only a small amount of botrytis after the storms. There are well-balanced, ripe but fresh whites.
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