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A serious rosé from Burgundy, kept 12-16 months in 500 litre barrels before bottling. It has aromas of strawberries and cherries and a fine and structured palate. It keeps well and 2017 was a beautiful, balanced vintage.
Product Code: BU69931
View all products by Domaine Sylvain Pataille
Sylvain Pataille is an exciting young grower in Marsannay. He trained as an oenologist in Bordeaux, and still consults to 15 or so domaines in Burgundy. His family had 4ha of vines in 1905, but lost them during difficult financial times. He began in 2001 with 4ha and now has 14ha mainly en fermage, on 25 year rental agreements, which are undergoing conversion to biodynamic cultivation. He makes white from aligoté and a selection of chardonnay rosé, whose skin turns pink when ripe, as well as rosé and red. He aims for very low yields in the reds of 35hl/ha.
Taking its name from the town at its heart, Nuits-St-Georges, the Côte de Nuits is the northern half of the Côte d’Or, the escarpment upon which lie the greatest of Burgundy’s vineyards. Though there are a number of very fine white wines made it is the reds for which the Côte de Nuits is truly famous. Compared with the red wines of the Côte de Beaune the reds from Nuits have more sophisticated tannins, extra body and a more sumptuous texture than their southern counterparts. The soils of the area are predominantly limestone of various types, which is excellent for drainage but also retention of water. The finest have a happy conjunction of silt and scree over marl with protected and sunny aspects in some of the side-valleys that cut into the escarpment from west to east. These cuts provide a number of meso- and microclimates as well as the various aspects. The best sites are neither at the top or the bottom of these slopes where the soils are too impoverished or too fertile respectively. More generic wines are produced at the top and bottom of these slopes, with the Premiers Crus and Grand Crus in a band running along the upper middle. The climate here is semi-continental, though northerly winds can temper a hot summer while warmer winds from the south can bring warmth. Westerly winds that ultimately originate in the Atlantic can bring rain but at its worst may deliver devastating hail in incredibly localised storms. There is a degree of unpredictability about vintages in Burgundy that mean more variation than in any other fine wine region.The appellations that sit above the generic regional ACs in the hierarchy are Marsannay, Fixin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Echézaux and Nuits-St-George. Côte de Nuits –Villages is made from grapes grown at either end of the Côte, where the soils and sites are less impressive. Gevrey-Chambertin is a complete and balanced wine, full and harmonious. Wines from Nuits-St-Georges are the most tannic and, like Pommards, need long maturation. For many Vosne-Romanée is the summit. Its wines have beautiful velvety palates: dense and soft, sensuous and tactile. Chambolle-Musigny is the lightest yet one of the most fragrant wines of the Côte de Nuits. It is perhaps Nuits's equivalent of Volnay; a pretty, fine boned wine with exquisite perfume and a silky palate.
Reds: a year that will give enormous pleasure.2017 produced exuberantly fruity wines with medium structure,so that the aromas are not suppressed by their tannins. It waspotentially high yielding for pinot noir and the best growersmanaged the yield and got ripe yet fresh grapes. The warm yearproduced an early harvest which took place between 2nd and15th September. A variety of red styles were made: the weather was good at vintage so there is a spread of picking dates. Some are fresh and bright, while the later-picked wines are rounder and sweeter. Both the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits were successful,making wines that in style and quality surpass 2014, are riper than 2013 yet are lighter than the really concentrated and great 2016s and 2015s.Whites: aromatic, ripe but freshChablis: bright and freshThe weather was coolest in Chablis, leading to bright and freshwines close to the great 2014s in style and character. In the lastfortnight of April frost ravaged the vineyards, reducing yield butnot affecting quality. Some premiers crus like Montée de Tonnerre and Mont de Milieu produced less than half a crop. The grands crus were partially protected by frost prevention measures.Côte d’Or: excellent concentration and good structure.Many vines here are low yielding due to coulure (poor fruit setwhich reduces quantity, but not quality) and some heat stress,which may have conserved acidity. The summer was warm andso the moderate crop ripened quickly and was picked early atthe end of August or early September.Mâconnais: very good wines from the best growersIt was warmest here and yields probably were at their highest,yet the good producers controlled this and picked early topreserve ripeness, making for very attractive wines.
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JancisRobinson.com 4th Dec 2020
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