Reds: Autumnal Burgundy

Burgundy is lovely to drink in autumn and winter. This coincides with the mushroom and game season whose flavours mirror those found in mature Burgundy, and whose low tannin and highish acidity is perfect with lean game or a wild mushroom risotto. For those who don't like game then a simply roasted chicken or guinea fowl is perfect.

Whites: Crystalline Chablis

I have recently been deriving much pleasure from Chablis, even at the modest village level. A nice series of vintages has helped: the fresh, racy 2007s, the firm yet fruity 2008s, the length and concentration of the 2010s and the ripe yet fresh 2011s are all delicious.