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Nadia Curto has produced a finely aromatic, supple and full-flavoured Barolo from this south-facing slope in La Morra, cultivating without the use of chemicals and bottling her wine unfiltered. Full and rounded on the palate yet elegant and charming too.
Product Code: IT26101
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The small Curto estate of about four hectares in the hamlet of Annunziata, which is part of La Morra in the heart of the Barolo production area, is owned by a traditional Langhe family. Marco Curto’s younger daughter, Nadia, who has recently taken over the reins, has provided a new energy and extra winemaking expertise, partly influenced by her uncle, Elio Altare, who was and still is an important influence in the region. Nadia follows her father’s natural approach in the vineyard. Only organic manure is used. No weedkillers, pesticides, insecticides or anti-mildew products are allowed. She has placed greater emphasis, however, on preserving bouquet and fruit. As a result her Barbera d’Alba La Foia (La Foia means leaf in Piedmontese dialect) retains wonderful freshness and drinkability, and the Barolo from the south-east-facing Arborina vineyard has, since 2010, shown wonderful bouquet, purity and finesse.
The most renowned of the north western wine regions of Italy is Piemonte, and it is arguable that it is the most renowned of all Italy’s wine producing regions. Home to Barolo and Barbaresco, both made solely from the nebbiolo grape that performs particularly well on the slopes around the town of Alba, Piemonte produces some of the most famous, and increasingly sought after, wines in the World. These are wines that manage to harmonise power and finesse, harnessing the abundant tannins of nebbiolo to richness and concentration but, in good examples, never tipping over into heaviness. They have all the components necessary to make wines that can age for many years and achieve a silky elegance that reminds many of the finest Burgundies. The climate is largely continental with a little influence from the Mediterranean over the hills helping to maintain the long, warm autumns that nebbiolo needs to reach full ripeness on the limestone, clay and sandy soils not far from the Alps to the north.Besides nebbiolo the Piemontese also make wines from varieties that give them something to drink while the Barolos and Barbarescos mature gracefully in vat and bottle. Dolcetto (little sweet one in Italian) and barbera are the principal varieties, best known for producing fruity, lively reds to match the foods of the region but which are also now being taken more seriously and given the treatment that can turn them into something far more refined and structured through lower yields, better sites and oak ageing. Beside them growers persist with the lesser known but just as fascinating freisa, rouchet, grignolino, brachetto, pelaverga, bonarda, croatina and vespolina, and the white varieties cortese and arneis. Lastly, but these days not necessarily least, Moscato d’Asti and Brachetto d’Acqui are two wines that, when made well, can be a delight – frothy, sweet and fragrant bubblies of low alcohol and gentle fizz for enjoying with a range of desserts when lightness of touch is called for or for drinking in the garden on a warm Summers’ evening.North of Piemonte is the Valle d’Aosta, the smallest wine region in Italy squeezed into a valley abutting the Alps almost in the shadow of Mont Blanc and reaching out to the French border. Here, on steep Alpine slopes, varieties like petite rouge, fumin, malvoisie and petite arvine sit alongside a few plantings of chardonnay and make characterful wines with a mountain freshness that goes delightfully with the local cuisine. Slightly to the east a scramble of small appellations such as Gattinara, Ghemme and Lessona produce perfumed and fine boned variations on nebbiolo, here known as spanna and sometimes blended with other local varieties, that were once more famous than Barolo. In the north-east of the region on the border with Switzerland Valtellina Superiore also majors in nebbiolo of excellence, this time within the region of Lombardy. Head south from Valtellina Superiore to the hills around Lago d’Iseo and the méthode traditionelle sparkling wines of Franciacorta are made from pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot bianco grapes. Throughout Lombardy still wines are made from an assortment of varieties in several different appellations without any making a stand as the focal point of regional production. Perhaps the closest to achieving such recognition, besides the increasingly well-known Franciacorta, is Lugana just south of Lake Garda where turbiano (aka verdicchio) can produce some excellent, fragrant whites on a flat glacial plain where the lake acts as a moderator of temperatures, cooling the air with its breezes. Liguria, famed more for its picturesque and exclusive Riviera resorts than its wines, runs in a strip from the French frontier to the border with Tuscany. Vineyards are small and fragmented due to the rugged terrain as the Ligurian Appenines finally curl and dip towards the sea and because of this Liguria’s production is tiny, if interesting. Vermentino, rossese, sangiovese and dolcetto are all grown but the most famous wine, oft seen by the tourists who consume most of it, is Cinque Terre made from bosco with either vermentino or albarola blended in.Finally, the wines of Colli Piacentini, Oltrepo Pavese and Gutturnio close to the city of Piacenza on the edge of the Emilia-Romagna, if chosen carefully, can provide much pleasure with wines made from barbera, bonarda and a number of international varieties. However, much of the crop and the wines made here are destined for spumante producers or blenders based elsewhere.
2014 was one of the trickiest Italian vintages for a long time. Most people who holidayed in Italy can attest to the fact that they would have had better weather if they'd stayed in the UK! Only Sicily and Calabria really escaped the challenges of the weather but elsewhere some good wines have been made, particularly amongst organic producers and where growers were able to take advantage of the good weather that came in September and October. Fontodi in Chianti, Coffele in Soave, and Barberani in Orvieto have all done well, we are happy to report.In Piemonte, it has turned out to be a surprising year. It was cool and wet, so work in the vineyard was the key. The wines are unlikely to be good across the board, as hail hit some vineyards and those who cropped too high or didn't work hard enough in the vineyard will have produced pretty poor wines. Those who did work hardest have made good wines with good colour and perfume and good levels of acidity. Dolcetto suffered most in such a difficult vintage.In Barbaresco things were a little better than in Barolo, and some exciting wines can be expected. Though some rain during flowering reduced the crop, and July was pretty wet, August was dry and there were no problems with hail either.
"A bit ordinary for the price."
"A bit ordinary for the price."
JancisRobinson.com 1st Dec 2018
"Food is essential
with this bone-dry, super-ripe emissary from the Langhe hills. Great value. - Jancis Robinson "
JancisRobinson.com 9th Nov 2018
"Bright pale ruby.
Well mannered. Bone dry and with a little less obvious fruit than some. But
certainly very correct – though food is essential! Tarry finish. Pure. 16.5/20"
The view from my table 5th Oct 2018
quite light in colour; beautiful elegance with depth and breadth - so subtle
despite its 15% alcohol. Gorgeous now – it’s made in a more modern style with
shorter maceration, and is more approachable for it – but worth keeping if you
can bear to. - Andy Neather"
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