Inspiration / Travels In Wine

Travels in Wine Greece: Four Feet in the Peloponnese


Sebastian Payne MW Sebastian Payne MW

Sebastian Payne MW and Freddy Bulmer scout out great Greek wine finds in part 1 of Travels in Wine Greece.

Three great days in Greece were a tonic and inspiration. Spring had arrived, though there had been little sign of it in the UK by then. I joined Freddy Bulmer, who had just paid whistle-stop visits to suppliers in Santorini and Crete.

Freddy joined me on the mainland after a flying visit to Santorini and Crete, capturing the classic view of the sun setting over the outlying islands from the main island of Santorini before he left
Freddy joined me on the mainland after a flying visit to Santorini and Crete, capturing the classic view of the sun setting over the outlying islands from the main island of Santorini before he left
Panayiotis Papagiannopoulos showed us (with the help of Rex the dog) his beautiful organic vineyards on the slopes of Mount Helmos, a popular ski resort near Patras
Winemaker Panayiotis Papagiannopoulos

Our first stop was Tetrámythos in the northern Peloponnese. The motorway from Athens now goes to Patras, from where an amazing earthquake-proof bridge crosses the Gulf of Corinth to mainland Greece.

But we stopped off before to climb the road up in the direction of Kalávrita, one of Greece's main ski resorts. The evening sky was untypically murky, with tiny particles of sand blown over from Africa, but next morning dawned bright and clear after overnight rain.

We looked round the spotlessly clean cellar before Panayiotis, winemaker here for the last 20 years, drove us up the winding track to see their vineyards.

Rex the vineyard dog at the Tetrámythos winery in the northern Peloponnese shows us the way!

…and on to the next vineyard spot courtesy of our guide Rex the dog

Rex, the dog, who has adopted the winery as his own, ran up ahead of us for several kilometres to show us the way. Standing in a field of 46-year-old roditis bush vines overlooking the bay of Corinth far below with the snow-capped Mount Helmos of Kalávrita up above showed me living proof of organic cultivation. The air was crystal clear with the light breeze that keeps the grapes fit and healthy in summer. The floor of the vineyard is covered in herbs, wild flowers and a mix of green salad type plants, several good enough to eat. I know because I tried them out there and then later in the delicious χορτοπιττα (Hortopita – Wild Greens Pie). At the edge of the vineyard we saw bushes of Tetrámythos, a kind of prickly pear, with spiky branches that gives the winery its name and a fine mix of wild vegetation. We also saw the occasional pine trees, from which they tap a little resin to infuse into an amphora filled with roditis wine to make their delicately scented retsina.

The lineup following a superb range tasting with Panagiotis at Tetramythos
The lineup following a superb range tasting with Panagiotis at Tetramythos

Back in the cellar we tasted excellent malagousia grown up the mountain and the rare black of Kalávrita with its haunting bouquet and clear vibrant taste best drunk cellar cool. Tetrámythos are the only winery to make this red as a single grape variety. Freddy was amazed at the quality of the 2017 roditis natur made with very low SO2. One cannot successfully make such wines unless the fruit is perfectly healthy and the cellar is spotlessly clean. I encountered the same philosophy at the Schuchmann winery in Georgia with their qvevri wines fermented and aged in amphorae.

An exciting new discovery from Tetramythos, a natural Roditis. Clean as a whistle
Panagiotis Papagiannopoulos, the wonderful winemaker at Tetramythos, with one of his amphorae

The best-known red wines of the Peloponnese are made from agiorgitiko (eye-your-gitiko) vines round the ancient sites of Nemea. We visited two wineries who make Nemea red at its best. George Skouras' modern spacious cellar, outside the dreary town of Argos, inspired by a visit to Napa in 2004, is exemplary. We began here, not with agiorgitiko but with a vertical tasting of his remarkable cabernet franc/merlot blend Synoro. We have sold out of his outstanding 2010 but the 2012 will run it close and a bottle of 2006 opened for us showed how brilliantly this wine ages. George made his name back in 1984 with his Megas Oinos, a blend of agiorgitiko and cabernet sauvignon at a time when only international grapes were taken seriously and he was opening up the USA market for high-quality Greek wine. His admirable St George Nemea and Grande Cuvée are made from agiorgitiko grown high up in the mountain foothills where the perfume and intensity of the grape show best.

Freddy gets a history lesson at the ruins of Ancient Nemea from Sebastian who knows his classics as well as his wines!
Freddy gets a history lesson at the ruins of Ancient Nemea from Sebastian who knows his classics as well as his wines!
The Semeli winery is perched on a ridge overlooking the Gulf of Corinth
The Semeli winery overlooks the Gulf of Corinth

On leaving we climbed the hills to visit the Semeli winery perched on a ridge overlooking the Gulf of Corinth to the north, the valley and mountainous interior to the south. Leonidas Nassiakos makes his rose-petal scented moschofilero white Mantinia here. He was in Cyprus when we visited so we were in the capable hands of fellow winemaker Kleoniki Kritikou. In 2017 their keenly priced white – a moschofilero/roditis blend – and the Feast Red made with agiorgitiko grapes and a little cabernet look a smart buy.

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