Guillaume Pouthier’s Carmes Haut-Brion has been one of the most sought-after wines in recent years, and his 2025 continues that remarkable run with another spectacular and highly individual release. Famed for its high proportion of old-vine cabernet franc (54% this year) from the estate’s historic clos vineyard, as well as its use of whole-bunch fermentation (65% in 2025, the highest proportion since 2022), the wine is unlike almost anything else offered en primeur. Walking an incredibly fine line between freshness and opulence, it is perfumed with notes of dried herbs, redcurrant, capsicum and violets. The palate is initially tight and introspective before exploding across the back palate in a crescendo of blackberry, cassis, Earl Grey tea and an estuarine saltiness. The tannins are impossibly fine yet remarkably present, carrying the fruit seamlessly through to a soaring finish. Perhaps a more intellectual wine than the more immediately appealing 2020 and 2022, this will require time but is yet another triumph for the team. This wine comes in a wooden case. Drink from 2037 to 2060. 13%
