An introduction to South African pinotage
What makes South Africa's very own grape so special? Buyer Jo Locke MW explains what sets this grape apart.
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Video transcript
My name is Jo Locke. I'm the buyer for South Africa here at The Wine Society, which I've been since I joined in 2004. But I had actually bought South African wines in a previous life. It was a fantastic return for me after a ten-year gap, and so much have changed in that time and even more has changed since. So, it's one of the most exciting places that I buy wine, and I would argue that any of us is buying wine these days. Today I'm going to talk about pinotage, which is South Africa's very own red grape. It was actually created by a crossing, which many grapes are created that way, cross fertilisation between pinot noir and cinsault, which is originally from the south of France, and that happened back in the 1920s. Professor Perold at Stellenbosch University made that crossing, but the first commercial plantings weren't until the 1950s, so it took some time to actually get the grape material going. And then the earliest one of the famous names, Lanzerac, was the first commercial bottling, and there have been a few old bottles of that wine still around and they have aged incredibly well. Since then, in the 70s and even into the 80s, pinotage had a bit more of a checkered history. People didn't always love it. I went to South Africa on an MW trip, I think it was in 1985, and I was amongst our group in quite a minority of people who enjoyed pinotage. But it wasn't all good. Now, having said that, things have changed dramatically in the last ten years or so. The quality is really excellent and there's tremendous variety as well. You can get light, fresh styles made in a much more modern, accessible way. Great served cool, whether it's with a summer barbecue or even in the winter months, it’s a lovely wine to have with mushrooms. Or they can go full up to the big, traditionally vinified, open fermenters, big hefty reds tend to be quite high in alcohol. It's a grape that needs to be as physiologically ripe as possible. It gets naturally high sugar levels. Some people use French oak, some use American oak, some a bit of both. And all of these factors have an impact on the style. Some of the most serious, well-known examples are from Kanonkop, who make our Exhibition Pinotage for us. But there are other very well-known names. Beeslaar, which is the wine made by Abrie, who is the winemaker at Kanonkop, is one of the most celebrated wines these days. And there are myriad wines from all across South Africa, from the warmer regions right down to the cooler regions, which you won't be surprised to hear, tend to make those lighter, fresher, cooler styles.
So, it's a grape that's very versatile with food. I went to a fantastic tasting years ago where, in an Indian restaurant, and the only wine that went with every single tasting dish we tried was pinotage.
It's incredibly adaptable, so, if it's a wine you didn't used to like, I would urge you to give it another go. If it's a wine that you've discovered and you've enjoyed, try the different styles, because we have quite a range of different styles available at any one time, so it's well worth a look and worthy of your attention, I would say. Sometimes it'll bring out the pinot noir bit of its heritage, sometimes more the cinsault. But the two together make a really interesting and unique grape that's planted hardly anywhere else.
So, South Africa is your place to go for pinotage.