Jeroboam of Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2018

This brilliantly distinctive Champagne, of which only a tiny number of 250 are bottled as jeroboams, is only released in the best vintages, and is only released in the best vintages, and the precise blend remains a closely guarded family secret to this day. It is, however, always dominated by pinot noir with chardonnay playing a supporting role (reflecting Churchill's preference for robust and structured Champagnes) – exclusively sourced from Grand Cru vineyards. Aged for six years in Pol’s famously cool 33-metre-deep chalk cellars, it was hand riddled (now a rare occurrence in the region) before disgorgement in September 2024 (jeroboams) and October 2024 (bottles and magnums). At first quiet on the nose, the 2018 needs coaxing and gentle aeration to reveal a subtle, serious, “vinous” aroma profile of black fruit, savoury spice, and dark praline. Powerful and voluminous on the palate – with all the gravitas we have come to expect from this cuvée – the mousse is extremely finely textured, with a tiny bead and a little grip on the finish. Flavours of lemon curd, mulberries, and black plums interlace with brown toast and roasted hazelnuts, around a salty umami core. Superb depth throughout the mid-palate moves to lingering persistence on the finish. Cellar this patiently, if you can, as it is going to unfurl into something quite special. Drink from 2026 to 2040. 12.5%