You’ve recently returned from harvesting in South Africa, how was that?
I was lucky enough to work a harvest with Society favourite Chris Alheit, who is not only an exceptional winemaker but an even better man. The work was hard: long days criss-crossing the Western Cape collecting grapes, surviving on roadside pies, and convincing myself that I LOVED cleaning a press.
The quality being produced in South Africa is extraordinary, so it’s great to see so many of the producers I admire represented on The Society’s List. There’s also a remarkable sense of community among the winemakers. People are genuinely supportive of one another (I lost track of the number of times a producer said their neighbour made ‘the best wine ever’) and, just as importantly, know how to have fun. You haven’t truly lived until you’ve shared a brandy and Coke with the force of nature that is Adi Badenhorst.
How do you think working a harvest helps you to do the day job?
Fine Wine is about far more than what's in the glass. It's shaped by the people, places and traditions behind every bottle. These are artisanal products crafted by passionate people, not commodities rolling off a factory line. Working harvests has given me a firsthand understanding of that reality, from picking old bush vines (my back has not recovered) to cleaning thousands of crates. Those experiences have given me a better understanding of how these wines are made and the people behind them, which I hope comes across when I talk about them with members.
What is the one big lesson or memory you’ll take away from that experience?
That much as I love wine, I’m not cut out for 22 hour days doing manual labour!
How did you first get into wine?
I first got into wine almost by accident. To help fund my master’s degree, I took a job at a wine bar. Up until that point, I had bought precisely zero bottles of wine in my life and drank it perhaps twice a year. I was, however, very interested in craft beer and cooking, so the flavours, history and stories behind wine immediately struck a chord. Before long, I found myself completely obsessed.
I spent much of my time at university reading about wine – it's far more interesting than Management – and, naturally, tasting it too (strictly for research purposes, of course). After graduating, I pursued that passion alongside my corporate job, undertaking WSET qualifications and taking every opportunity to learn (and drink) more.
What about fine wine… was it just a natural progression or was there a particular bottle or moment that did it for you?
I largely skipped the bottom-shelf wine phase. For most of my early drinking life I stuck to beer, so by the time I got into wine I could afford reasonably good bottles. From the start, I was drawn as much to the stories behind the bottle as the flavours themselves. Wine offered an endless rabbit hole of history, geography and culture that appealed to my nerdy side. The drinking was fun too.
My memory for specific bottles from those early days is a little hazy, but two wines do stand out.
The first was an off-dry riesling from Aussie producer Mac Forbes, purchased from The Wine Society. I paired it with a Thai-style ceviche (don’t ask, it worked) and the combo absolutely blew me away. While I’m not one to be too dogmatic about food and wine pairings, that meal demonstrated just how transformative the right wine can be, elevating a simple dish into something truly memorable.
My second seminal wine was a bottle of Jean Foillard’s Morgon Côte du Py 2015. A friend described it as ‘the greatest wine in the world’ [sic], so naturally we needed to test this out. I remember being amazed at how this wine from a (then) somewhat unfashionable region managed to combine such intensity, elegance and freshness. It seemed 4D whilst other wines felt so flat.
Another important influence on my early wine education was the magazine Noble Rot. I first bought a copy simply because it had a great cover (the Donald Trump and Kim Jong Un issue, for any fellow 'Rotters'). Its unapologetic focus on fine wine did a great deal to shape my interests. At first, I could only dream of drinking the bottles they featured, but I later landed a job as a sommelier at one of their restaurants – a far better way to experience those wines than simply reading about them.
What was your first job?
I took a rather circuitous route into the wine trade, with detours through advertising and management consulting after university. My first job in wine came as a Christmas temp at Hedonism Wines in Mayfair. Having barely seen – let alone drunk or bought – a bottle of wine over about £30, it was quite the eye opener! The lady who described a £700 Super Tuscan as ‘cooking wine’ will live long in the memory...
Do you have a favourite wine region?
If I had to pick just one, it would be the Northern Rhône, and entirely for the reds (sorry viognier, roussane and marsanne). There is something about the unadorned sauvage character of syrah that resonates with me. I tend to shy away from heavier handed, extracted styles, which I believe sacrifice some nuance and rawness in favour of sheer power. I am drawn to producers who combine aromatic lift and elegance, with a restrained intensity. Chapeau Messrs Gonon, Graillot, Allemand etc.
What are you most looking forward to in your new role here at The Wine Society?
The Wine Society has been a huge part of my wine journey. I joined almost as soon as I developed an interest in the noble grape, and it has played a significant role in shaping my tastes and understanding of wine.
What excites me most about this new role is the opportunity to help grow and develop the Society’s Fine Wine offering. I’m looking forward to using the enthusiasm and curiosity that first drew me into wine to help members discover bottles, producers and regions that I’m genuinely passionate about.
What have been your first impressions of The Wine Society?
As a long-standing member, I already had a good sense of what The Wine Society would be like. Even so, what has stood out since joining is how much members shape the way decisions are made. That focus comes through across the organisation and feels refreshingly different from much of the wine trade.
What’s the strangest question you’ve been asked about wine?
If a wine that had a tasting note of ‘pineapple’ would trigger her pineapple allergy...
What’s the question you wish you were asked?
“What makes a ‘fine wine’”? I’m not sure I have the answer, but I have many opinions!
What about your spare time (if you have any!) – what do you get up to?
I am obsessed with sports, particularly golf, rugby and football, with some cricket chucked in if there is a Test match on. These days I'm more in my viewing than playing era, although I try to squeeze in 18 holes with my dad whenever I'm home. I'm also a keen reader, and love cooking for friends and family, if only because it provides the perfect excuse to liberate a bottle or two from the cellar.
Desert-island bottle and person to share it with?
Any of the aforementioned syrahs would go down a treat. However, the greatest wine I’ve ever tried was a thimbleful of Gianfranco Soldera’s Case Basse 2019, drunk far too young and far too late in the night. I’d love the chance to split a bottle with my two best wine friends, Sam and Jack, so we could give it the attention it deserves. A few takeaway pizzas and I think we’re set for a good night!
Wine pairing that really shouldn’t work, but does?
I’m a big fan of sherry and find it one of the most versatile wines for unexpected pairings.
When I visited the region a few years ago, I had some brilliant combinations involving bluefin tuna and a range of styles. Fino and manzanilla were excellent with raw or simply seared tuna, but what really surprised me were the richer, stew-like dishes paired with amontillado and palo cortado – combinations that had never occurred to me, yet worked beautifully. Another standout was rabo de toro, a traditional oxtail stew, served with oloroso – a deeply savoury, unctuous pairing that made perfect sense once you tasted it together.
I also tried caracoles (snail broth) with manzanilla, a local speciality that was perhaps a step too far for my palate – the French still have the edge when it comes to gastronomic gastropods.
Anything else you’d like us to know about you…?
I think that probably covers the essentials! I'm always happy to talk wine, whether it's swapping recommendations, discussing a favourite producer or hearing about a bottle you've recently enjoyed.