En primeur: White Burgundy 2025

Usually an assemblage of three vineyards, in 2025 this comes from just two: Les Saint-Jacques and En Varot. Picked after the August rains which helped the vines after the long, dry summer, this is bright and fresh with appley fruit and a creamy mid-palate texture. An understated, elegant wine, with subtle oak (a tiny proportion new) and harmonious balance. 100% barrel fermented and matured. Drink from 2028 to 2031. 12.7%

Auxey-Duresses is a tiny commune so quantities are always limited. A blend of La Macabrée, Les Grandes Vignes and Derrière le Four – all climats just turning towards the north, which today in this climate-change world, lends a welcome freshness. The wine exudes finesse, with a touch of gunflint on the nose leading to a layered and complex palate with gorgeous intensity of lemon and just-ripe white peach fruit. Rich but not in any way heavy, with revitalising, well-integrated acidity and a long persistent sapid finish. 100% barrel fermented and matured, 15% new oak. Drink from 2029 to 2034.

A mouth-filling, textural and full-bodied wine, with salted butter and hazelnut complexity carried by a seam of bright, citrussy acidity. This is bold and rich, but elegant, too, with a flinty minerality on the finish. Olivier Leflaive’s Meursault shows the blending expertise of a top négociant; it is a carefully constructed blend, combining richness and weight from the lower vineyards with more clay (including Millerands, Sous la Velle), with freshness from the hillside vineyards (including Luraule, Vireuils, Clous). 100% barrel fermented and matured, 20% new oak. Drink from 2029 to 2033.

Powerful and rich, Château de Beauregard’s Les Vignes Blanches shows ripe, concentrated lemon and lemon-curd character this vintage, with a silky, sumptuous mouthfeel and generous oak. A blend of four of the seven lieux-dits in the premier cru, which is planted on an east-facing slope of clay-rich soils situated in the warm Fuissé amphitheatre. It therefore enjoys a Côte d’Or-like exposure and produces some of the most opulent of all Pouilly-Fuissés, as evidenced in this luxuriant and resonant 2025. 100% barrel fermented and matured (in 228L barrels), circa 30% new oak. Drink from 2029 to 2035. 13.5%

Situated high up at around 400m elevation, this is a windy, open site, with the vines planted on a well-drained limestone slope. ‘Cra’ is a derivation from ‘craie,’ which is limestone in French, explaining the name of this lieu-dit. Opening with a cool and beguiling perfume of wild herbs like lemon verbena and yellow grapefruit, this has vivid freshness and vibrant apple fruit flavours, with a creamy edge, from yeast lees ageing, and a moreish salinity on the finish. 100% barrel fermented and matured (in 350-litre barrels). Drink from 2028 to 2030. 13%

A rich and impressive Saint-Véran – that can stand up against many a Pouilly-Fuissé – from the commune of Chasselas, planted at 250 to 300m on a well-drained south-facing slope. This warm site yields the fullest style of Château de Beauregard’s Saint-Véran trio but still maintains freshness. Generously fruited with pear and baked apple flavours, this has a pithy grip which contributes to the overall perception of refreshment and balance. 100% barrel fermented and matured (in 228L barrels, like the best Pouilly-Fuissés). Drink from 2028 to 2031. 13.5%

In old French, ‘frionnes’ means cold says François d’Allaines and this vineyard is indeed a cooler, later-ripening site than Sur Gamay, and consequently is harvested later. Chiselled and linear, with a fruit profile ranging from citrus to green apple and just nudging into riper yellow apple, this is vivid and mineral, with a long stony finish. 100% barrel fermented and matured, 20% new oak. Production was five barrels. Drink from 2029 to 2035. 12.6%

François d’Allaines took all of this grower’s production in 2025 and still made just two barrels. Rich and concentrated with stone-fruit as well as baked apple flavours and toasty oak, this is a more opulent expression of Saint-Aubin than Les Frionnes and is fascinating to taste side by side. 100% barrel fermented and matured. Drink from 2029 to 2033. 12.5%

This complementary blend of three different vineyards always works very well, with each making a different contribution to the whole. The largest component comprising 11 barrels this year is crisp, fresh and mineral and more in the citrus-fruit profile, which when combined with two richer, more concentrated components results in a lovely overall balance. With apple, apricot and a peach-skin character, this marries freshness with roundness and carries more weight than the 2024. 100% barrel fermented and matured. Drink from 2028 to 2030. 13%

Fresh and floral with gentle aromas of white peach and spring blossom, with lemony fruit and a chalky minerality on the palate. There is a seamlessness here, already, suggesting this will be approachable early. 5% of the fruit comes from the cooler Hautes Côtes vineyards, 15% from the Côte Chalonnaise, and 80% from vineyards classified as Bourgogne situated on the land below Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. All the plots are pressed and fermented separately before being blended barrel by barrel, tank by tank. Approximately 80% is barrel fermented (10% new oak), and kept on its yeast lees for richness, with 20% tank fermented to capture the pure fruit, as in 2024. Drink from 2027 to 2031.

A newcome to our en primeur offer this year, this Montagny impressed with its chiselled structure and tension. Winemaker Solène Panigai always finds more acidity in this vineyard on limestone soil, she says; while it isn’t racy, it shows great balance and freshness, with a salty finish. 90% fermented in barrels (15% new oak), the balance was tank fermented, leading to a wine which shows subtle oak spice already well integrated with the intense lemon and yellow apple fruit on the palate. Drink from 2028 to 2032.

Intense and very fine with aromas of white blossom and flint. Elegant, fresh and stylishly oaked, this has a long, linear palate shape and restrained fruit character of lemon and white peach, with a saline streak. A single, very well-placed vineyard, Enseignères is situated just below grand cru Bâtard-Montrachet, and this wine is principally made from a one-hectare parcel managed by Olivier Leflaive. 100% barrel fermented and matured in 20% new oak. Drink from 2029 to 2035.

This is full-bodied, textbook Pouilly-Fuissé, ripe and generous with concentrated yellow peach and apricot fruit and overt toast and vanilla character. Balancing the inherent richness is a vibrant acidity. Blended from more than 25 parcels of vines, Les Grandes Teppes incorporates fruit from cooler Vergisson, which contributes freshness and length. While usually a blend of barrel-fermented and tank-fermented components (circa 80/20), in the small 2025 vintage this is entirely barrel-fermented in around 30% new oak (a higher proportion than usual, again due to the reduced yields) – which will delight drinkers who love the richer styles of Pouilly-Fuissé. Drink from 2028 to 2031. 13.5%

From a superb vineyard planted on marnes soil, which imbue this wine with controlled power, in Fuissé but bordering Pouilly, this comes from the heart of the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. The orientation turns slightly to the north-east, making it a little cooler than the Fuissé amphitheatre’s warmer east-facing vineyards and thus giving the fruit a longer hang time. As ever, Les Reisses is a synthesis of the power of Fuissé with the mineral elegance of Pouilly, displaying an understated aromatic of jasmine blossom, white fruit and subtle, perfumed oak. A textural richness runs from the front to the back of the palate, and the finish is long and harmonious. Frédéric Burrier describes Les Reisses as the most balanced premier cru of Pouilly-Fuissé. 100% barrel fermented and matured (in 228-litre barrels), circa 30% new oak. Drink from 2029 to 2035. 13.5%

Drink from 2028 to 2030

A six-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the following wines:

Francois d'Allaines Bourgogne Blanc, Cote Chalonnaise
Francois d'Allaines, Rully Tête de Cuvée
Olivier Leflaive Les Sétilles, Bourgogne Blanc
Domaine de la Rochette, Montagne de Cra Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine
Château de Beauregard, Saint-Véran La Roche
Château de Beauregard, Pouilly-Fuissé Les Grandes Teppes

Notes PDF