Jean Foillard’s Côte du Py is both more subtle and more beguiling in its perfume than the classic Morgon at this stage, showing beautifully fragrant dried rose petals, raspberries, earth, and tealeaf. With tightrope tension on the palate, there is a translucence to the redcurrant and raspberry fruit, and a deep, stony minerality. This is so very fine, but embryonic now. While it’s already delicious, it is going to be even more exciting and complex in another couple of years, so tuck it away in your Reserves for a while. Ethereal but gently gripping tannins contain an intense core of fruit, and the mineral finish goes on and on. This is a formidable and almost paradoxical synthesis of elegance and power, and it’s utterly enchanting. Drink from 2027 to 2039. 13%