Picpoul de Pinet, Domaine Félines Jourdan 2023

This Languedoc estate is run by the talented Claude Jourdan, whose family has been winemaking in the area for many generations. The family bought Domaine Félines in 1983, changing the name to Domaine Félines Jourdan to mark the start of its, and their, new chapter.

Arguably their most famous wine is Picpoul de Pinet, a variety that was granted AOC status in 1985, prompting winemakers to produce better and better examples since. This marked improvement in quality means it has gained considerable popularity in the last few years. However, whereas many co-operatives produce good but unexciting versions, Félines Jourdan leads the way in producing a quintessential example of this round, food-friendly Mediterranean white.

The name Picpoul de Pinet refers to the town of Pinet in the very south of France, and Félines Jourdan’s 40ha estate is based nearby in Mèze. Much of their vineyards are right on the Mediterranean coast at the edge of the Thau Lagoon (or Bassin de Thau), a picturesque body of water that is home to flamingoes and is particularly famous for its oysters, which are perfectly suited to a glass of Picpoul de Pinet. Recognising the importance of these wonderful natural surroundings, Félines Jourdan practices sustainable viticulture, and are committed to protecting not only the vineyards, but also the lagoon and the nearby bird reserve.

The proximity to the coast provides essential cool sea breezes, protecting the health of the vines and helping to keep temperature variation to a minimum. The region has low rainfall which works well with the water-retaining chalky soils.

The soils are also particularly suited to the picpoul (or piquepoule) grape’s high acidity levels. Picpoul really does live up to its French name: pique means sharp and lively, and poule means soft, characteristics that are evident in the finished wine, which is comparable in many respects to Italy’s popular Soaves.

Although the Jourdans are proud of their family winemaking heritage and retain much of the wisdom of their ancestors, they are ready to embrace change. Harvest times are adjusted, from vintage to vintage, to ensure optimum grape maturity, and the winery benefits from temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks and air conditioning, both crucial to keeping their wines fresher for longer.