The Society's Pioneers Case

Fresh, taut and mineral wine from the cool Limarí region of Chile. Barrel fermentation develops the flavours and contributes a hint of oak without masking its bright aromas and flavours, and decanting is recommended to open them up. There’s a lot going on behind this chardonnay, but refreshingly little going into it. The grapes come entirely from Concha y Toro’s own vineyards in Limarí, and their quality means the winemaking can be kept pleasingly simple, with very little intervention needed in the cellar. In dry Chile, every drop counts, so drip irrigation helps make careful use of water. There’s room for nature too: Concha y Toro looks after 4,200 hectares of natural forest around its vineyards, while pollinator gardens, nest boxes and drinking pools encourage wildlife. It’s this combination of working thoughtfully at real scale, while continuing to push what’s possible, that makes Concha y Toro a Pioneer for us. Thoughtful farming, gentle winemaking and a cracking chardonnay at the end of it.

Pinotage takes the lead in this fresh and spicy Cape Blend of young Stellenbosch syrah with older bush-vine pinotage from Swartland. The grapes were lightly crushed and gently handled in the cellar to produce a dark-cherry-flavoured red with approachable tannins. This still-youthful wine benefits from a decant two hours before serving. Radford Dale have been quietly doing things differently for years, which makes them a natural choice as one of our Pioneers. In the winery their philosophy is wonderfully simple: ‘If it’s not in the grape, it’s not in the wine’, with natural fermentation and very little added along the way. One of their wineries runs entirely on solar power, while water is cleaned and recycled through a constructed wetland. Out among the vines, ducks tackle snails, raptor perches encourage natural pest control and vineyard waste is composted and returned to the land. But perhaps our favourite part is Land of Hope: for 20 years, 50% of profits have gone into a trust supporting the education of employees’ children. Great wine, made by people trying to leave things better than they found them.

This is a modern and vibrant Swartland chenin effusive with peach, cantaloupe melon and honeysuckle aromas. Refreshing with a lovely mid-palate texture and grapefruit pith and orange peel on the finish. Lubanzi was founded with an unusual idea: make cracking wine, but make sure more of the value finds its way back to the people and communities behind it. Half of its net profits go to the Pebbles Project, helping wine-farm workers and their families access better healthcare and education, while a further premium from the wine goes directly to farm workers. The Chenin itself comes from a grower they’ve worked with for ten vintages, with grapes largely dry-farmed in the drought-prone Swartland, cover crops protecting the soil and very little spraying. In the winery, natural fermentation and minimal additions keep things simple. Even the labels are made from recycled sugar-cane pulp. That combination of great wine and genuine social purpose makes Lubanzi a very natural Pioneer for us.

From a member favourite estate from the full-bodied 2022 vintage this has a fragrant bouquet of plums, tar and vanilla, with a layered, juicy texture on the palate, concentrated and well balanced with grainy, ripe tannins on the finish. Remarkable value. At Château de la Grave, vines are only part of the picture. The family describes its approach as moving away from monoculture, bringing more variety and life back into the landscape. Sheep graze between the vines, keeping grass down and naturally fertilising the soil, while permanent ground cover, ponds and ‘dry hedges’ made from old branches provide homes for wildlife. The vines are farmed organically and without irrigation, and the family is experimenting with biodynamic practices too. As winners of our 2024 Climate & Nature fund, they’re taking things further, planting fruit, olive and truffle trees alongside meadows for grazing. It’s this determination to build a more diverse, resilient vineyard that makes Château de la Grave a Pioneer.

Kotsifali is one of Crete's most exciting native varieties, producing rich, juicy, darkly fruited reds with supple texture, great freshness and bags of blackberry and cherry fruit. This organic example from leading producer Lyrarakis is well worth a try. Things are pretty lively in Lyrarakis’ vineyards, and their willingness to experiment and adapt is exactly why we’ve chosen them as a Wine Society Pioneer. Sheep graze between the vines, while chickens, turkeys, geese and ducks have all been put to work too, alongside wild plants, mixed crops between the vines and newly planted fruit and walnut trees. In hot, dry Crete, water is precious, so irrigation is largely reserved for young vines, with soil sensors helping work out when it’s really needed. The vineyards and olive groves are farmed organically, and they’re even monitoring how biodiversity changes from year to year. Back at the winery, rooftop solar panels provide power, including charging three electric cars. A lovely mixture of old-fashioned farming and new ideas, with nature given plenty of room to muck in.

A charming white Rioja from the Glorioso stable, showing off white flowers, citrus, and a medley of fresh fruit, balanced by subtle toasty, brioche notes from three months in French and American oak. Smooth on the palate, with hints of crisp apple with a beautifully structured and creamy weight with lively acidity and freshness, Elegant, expressive, and utterly food-friendly. Glorioso Blanco comes from a producer that believes great wine starts with great relationships, and that’s a big part of why we’ve chosen Cosme Palacio as a Wine Society Pioneer. For this wine, they source grapes from 27 local growers, paying above the market rate for the best fruit and using those relationships to encourage practices that build healthier vineyards over time. Growers are supported with detailed soil analysis, while cover crops and composting are being introduced to improve the soil. In the winery, the approach is increasingly one of restraint, reducing additions and letting the grapes do the talking. The team is also bringing seasonal workers in-house to help ensure fair pay and good working conditions. Add lightweight bottles and newly installed solar panels, and there’s plenty to feel good about behind the bottle