Barolo’s reputation rests not only on nebbiolo and its remarkable ability to show the nuances of the place it comes from, but also on the families who have shaped the region for generations. The continuity that they bring in terms of decision making and stewardship of the land define Barolo as much as any cru map or winemaking technique. In compiling our en primeur offer of the 2022 vintage, this came into sharp focus: around 90% of the wines we work with come from family-owned producers, some many generations old and others more recently established.
Working with so many families, it is easy to see that they consistently make decisions that protect their identities, nurture their vineyards, respect tradition and think generationally rather than year to year.
When tasting at Vajra with Giuseppe, the eldest son of Aldo and Milena and now responsible for many of the winemaking decisions, it was clear that working alongside his brother Isidoro and sister Francesca is shaping the wines they produce as much as with any piece of new equipment in the winery. The varied investments are being made with their own children in mind, and their commitment to true sustainability – alongside the aim of making the best wine possible from each site – comes across strongly.
At Silvano Bolmida’s winery, carved into the hillside over the past five years, it is equally clear that his investment has been made as much for his children as to have a modern space to craft the finest wines. He is visibly, and wonderfully proud as his daughter Alessandra forges ahead in the winery with great skill and Francesco takes the helm in the meticulously (and organically) farmed vineyards.
… respect for our history and our territory with openness towards the future
It is impossible to ignore the importance of family history at Ratti, particularly with the opening last autumn of a museum dedicated to founder Renato Ratti’s many achievements, from early Barolo mapping to his pioneering work with bottles and labels. Pietro Ratti is clear that being a family estate allows for ‘quality, research, passion, respect for our history and our territory with openness towards the future,’ and that these principles shape both the wines he produces and the decisions he makes. Poderi Colla and Cavallotto also have deep family histories, with generations before them having planted and tended the vineyards they still work today, alongside brothers, cousins, uncles and mothers.
At smaller wineries such as Curto, Nadia greets me each time with her ever-faithful dog Dardo and stories of her now 89-year-old father, who still completes his winery tasks each day without fail. He once delivered wine and collected goods travelling up and down the local hills by horse and cart. This year I was delighted to hear that Nadia’s 16-year-old son is beginning to show an interest in his mother’s passion, helping on the tractors during harvest.
Enzo Boglietti reminds me that they have only been making wine commercially since 1991 from a tiny holding of vineyards inherited from his grandfather Matteo Boglietti and on his mother’s side from her father, Giovanni Montanaro. All the grapes previously went to the local co-op (except some kept back for wine for the family) and they also sold milk, cereals and cattle. It was when the price of milk crashed that they were spurred on to make their own wine, with the help and encouragement of friends and fellow wine producers. Enzo now runs the domaine with his father Renato and brother Gianni doing an excellent job in the vineyards. An architect cousin, Ivana Boglietti designed their striking wine labels and today, Enzo is joined in the business by his son Matteo and daughter Linda.
These are just a few snippets from the many family members you support with each purchase of Barolo. From Massolino and Pio Cesare to Burlotto and Anselma, each family is crafting wine with deep respect for the land, the grapes and their heritage, caring as much about their histories as their futures.
>> Discover our en primeur offer of 2022 Barolos
