En primeur

Barolo 2022

Ripe, refined and already difficult to resist

Barolo 2022

Our Barolo offer has been growing in popularity over the last six years. The selection for the 2022 release is a little smaller than the stellar 2021, but each wine has been carefully tasted to ensure it meets the high standards we all expect from great Barolo.

Often made by small family producers, these wines are truly hand-crafted – a factor that becomes even more important as climate change renders vintages increasingly unpredictable. The 2022 vintage was a dry, warm year, with some south-facing vines even restricting their growth to combat heat stress. On tasting, it was clear from the quality of the wines which producers had responded carefully and swiftly to the conditions: increasing shade, reducing yields and using techniques to preserve the limited moisture in the soils. Wines made from higher proportions of old vines and vineyards at elevation did particularly well. Many of the producers we follow commented on their surprise that when the analyses of the wines began to come through that the pHs were in line with cooler vintages, even if ripeness was elevated, giving the 2022s a lovely freshness. Many also remarked on the necessity of sorting grapes on arrival – critical for removing any raisined berries.

Across the 2022s, my tasting notes frequently refer to drinkability. The riper tannins, combined with the increasingly refined skills of the winemakers, mean that many of these nebbiolos are genuinely approachable, if decanted, on release. Their fresh, bright acidity, coupled with stunning youthful red-fruited, orange-tinged and often rose-scented perfumes, makes them enticing within five years. However, many of these wines will continue to age well over the next decade, developing more earthen spice and opulence.

Selecting the range this year was a pleasure, and I have included several mixed cases to highlight some of the producers and themes I enjoyed most. I hope you explore the wines and add a few to your Reserves.

Buyer for Italy
Sarah Knowles MW Buyer for Italy

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