As I reach the first anniversary of officially taking over the buying responsibility for Spain, I still have to pinch myself at times. It’s the realisation that all the hard work, thirst for knowledge, passion and the people I’ve met along the way has culminated in me earning the role of buyer for Spain at The Wine Society. I challenge any buyer in the trade to disagree; there’s is no buying role which gives you not just the freedom to buy wines you believe in, but which also trusts you to be true to yourself. To be doing this for Spain, well, it’s just a dream come true.
So, it feels beautifully serendipitous to be marking my first anniversary with the launch of our very first Fine Wine Regional Spotlight… on Spain, of course.
Languages offered a passport to a different world
Spain was one of my first buying regions when I worked for wine importers Enotria. I was the only person who spoke Spanish, and at the time, Spain wasn’t seen as a particularly highbrow region, so I took my chance. For me, languages have always been a passport to the world. They offer a chance to escape mundane expectations of existence by doing these somewhere different, experiencing something different…’there must be more to life?’ I always thought to myself. Wine feels like a natural extension of that curiosity, but with the added guarantee of good food, good people and fun.
A lot of thirst goes a long way!
At the start of my career, I inherited a Spanish portfolio with little knowledge and a lot of thirst. At the time our range had an established Rioja listing, some good quality entry-level wines, and a token albariño – pretty avant-garde at the time! So basically, a blank canvas. I began my journey, with an open mind, an empty notebook and no idea how deeply Spain and its plethora of amazing wines would engulf me. That was 15 years ago, and even in that time, the evolution of Spain’s fine wine scene has been nothing short of extraordinary.
The rise of Spanish fine wine
Let’s take a moment to understand why Spain is still considered an underdog on the fine wine stage, a perception that has little to do with its terroir, heritage or, indeed, potential. While other countries were continuing to gain recognition for their wines, between the 1940s and late 1970s, under Franco’s dictatorship, Spain’s wine industry was stifled by isolationist policies with a push for bulk over quality. Cut off from global markets and innovation, regional identities and fine wine ambitions were largely suppressed.
Decades of untapped potential are now being unleashed with fresh energy, precision, and purpose.
While that history is sobering, it also sets the stage for why there has never been a more exciting time to discover Spain’s fine wines today. Decades of untapped potential are now being unleashed with fresh energy, precision and purpose.
An increasing focus on terroir from new-wave winemakers
A new wave of winemakers, many of whom are discovering old, forgotten plots, are breathing new life into the land with care, curiosity and confidence. I’ve seen an increased sense of collaboration and open-mindedness, with producers learning from each other and looking outward, too. But most exciting is the ever-increasing focus on terroir: mapping single sites, championing native grapes and capturing the true essence of place. And what’s more, the growers and producers I am lucky to meet, do it all with a humility and a laid-back energy that is hard to find in the world of fine wine.
And that brings me to our first-ever spotlight on Spain coming out at the end of July 2025. Curating this selection has been one of the most rewarding and challenging parts of launching the Spain Fine Wine Spotlight. There were countless directions I could have taken, but in the end, I knew I wanted to strike a balance between championing the country’s most established region, Rioja, while shining a light on lesser-known regions and the thrilling new wave of producers who are rewriting Spain’s fine wine story today.
Rioja has an incredible fine wine legacy to draw from
I can’t talk about fine wine from Spain without talking about Rioja, which, politically less affected by Franco’s dictatorship, has an incredible legacy to draw from. My Rioja offer includes a selection of rare, mature parcels, that demonstrate just how beautifully Rioja can age, a first release of the 2021 vintage, which may be the best vintage in at least over 20 years (you heard it here first), and a 2024 en primeur of two exceptional producers, Sierra Cantabria and Cuentavinas. Two wineries, father and son, bound by their precision and dedication to the land, but with contrasting vision and style.
Forgotten plots in Ribera del Duero and Galicia
Beyond Rioja, I’m equally excited about my selections from the other regions I chose to focus on, Ribera del Duero and Galicia. Within these selections, expect diversity of styles from the next generation of winemakers who are working with old, forgotten plots and approaching their land with fresh eyes and deep respect.
With more openness, collaboration and an ever-sharper focus on mapping terroir and celebrating native varieties, there’s far more to Spain than meets the eye. It’s a collection that I’m proud of, where you can explore wines to drink now or wines to lay down, all shaped by both heritage and innovation.
Although, if I’m being honest, I still feel as though I’m just scratching the surface. The more I explore, the more there is to uncover, which is exactly what makes this role such a dream. So yes, I’m still pinching myself… though at this point, it might just be to stay awake between vineyard visits, barrel tastings and writing however many words on my exploits in Galicia! Either way, I wouldn’t have it any other way.
