We often get asked about natural wine. What is it? Is it any good? Do we stock any? As a movement, it has attracted a lot of attention and at times has led to heated discussions and debates, but ultimately it has chimed with the current zeitgeist for authentic, unadulterated, artisanal products. All of which, incidentally, have always been important to The Wine Society and were enshrined in our founding objectives. But, leaving aside the fact that there is no universally-acknowledged definition of natural wine, what really excites us is the rise of a new winemaking philosophy taking hold across the world of wine.
The new high-attention, low-intervention philosophy
The terms ‘low intervention’ or ‘hands-off’ winemaking have been used to describe the philosophy in the past, but they suggest minimal effort is required on the part of the producer. The reality could not be more different. Low intervention demands maximum attention.
Far from being hands-off, this approach is more dynamic, requires more work from winemakers and grape growers, and sees producers reconnecting with traditional methods in the context of the modern world. It requires intimate knowledge of surroundings, greater attention to detail and a more thoughtful mindset that balances expertise with the confidence to be restrained.
In effect, it strives to work with, rather than against nature, leading to more resilient vineyards and healthier, better-balanced grapes. At The Wine Society, we believe these principles result in the purest and best expression of wine.
‘Our employer is nature’
Alwin Jurtschitsch, whose family winery in Langenlois, Austria, dates back to the 16th century, puts it clearly: ‘It makes us better winemakers. Our employer is nature… we know our vineyards very well, and we know when they need us.’ Like many of our growers, he spends much of his time among the vines, observing and connecting with them throughout the annual cycle. This careful stewardship allows growers to cultivate healthy soil and grapes without synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides, or with very minimal, targeted applications. It requires an obsessive focus and a deep understanding of the vineyard.
Natural wine – an impetus for change
The rise of natural wine has played a significant role in driving this change. The concept re-emerged in the 1980s, though the first recorded definition of natural wine dates back to 1816, when it was used to promote wines with ‘no added sugar.’ However, natural wine remains a controversial topic in the wine world. Simplifying a complex subject leaves it vulnerable to misinterpretation and misuse, which is why The Wine Society has steered away from using it in our wine descriptions.
What do we mean by natural wine?
A natural wine should come from organic and/or biodynamic vineyards, use indigenous yeasts for fermentation, avoid additives and aggressive technological processes, and be bottled with lower sulphite levels. At The Wine Society, we support these principles. However, as with any craft, there are poorly made natural wines – unstable, faulty, overly yeasty, or excessively sour – which do not make it into our range. Just as we exclude highly manipulated wines that rely on artificial enhancements to mask poor-quality grapes, we also avoid unstable wines that lack precision.
A current example of technological intervention in wine is the push from UK retailers for lower-alcohol wines in response to the new duty system. The quickest, most energy-intensive solution is the use of a spinning cone – a heavy industrial process that removes alcohol along with some of the wine’s flavour. We refuse to take this approach. Instead, we seek out authentic, lower-alcohol styles crafted through thoughtful vineyard techniques such as careful pruning, canopy management or early picking.
What’s in it for wine drinkers?
This shift toward high-attention, low-intervention winemaking has inspired growers to take greater care in their vineyards, experiment in the winery, and ultimately be better atuned to nature. For wine drinkers, this ensures wines that are better for the environment, contain fewer additives, and are potentially more nutritious. We believe this results in wines that are purer, more refined, and more expressive of their origins. Better soil and fewer chemicals equal better taste. Winemakers who embrace this approach often speak of their wines as having more energy and a kind of resonance.
crafting something with space and soul requires restraint
I liken this to music – it’s easy to create something polished using the latest technology, but this often leads to overproduction, a sound that jumps out of the speakers but lacks depth. You hear it once, and that’s enough. In contrast, crafting something with space and soul requires restraint. It invites the listener – or in this case, the drinker – to keep discovering fresh nuances with every sip or listen.
Defining high-attention, low-intervention wines
Identifying these wines within our range is challenging. While organic and biodynamic wines are available on our website, we want to establish a clear Wine Society definition for these high-attention, low-intervention wines. However, with over 40 different certifications available, many small producers following these principles simply cannot afford the time or cost of acquiring certification. In the short term, we are including wines that meet the criteria outlined in the official French definition for natural wine (Vin Méthode Nature).
>> Browse our selection of natural wines
Going a bolder step further
Yet, we see this as part of a larger movement which we want to take further – one that also considers broader sustainability factors, such as bottle weight and social responsibility. So members can be sure that what they drink is responsibly produced, traceable, fair and, as it’s on The Wine Society’s List, always reliably excellent quality.
The well-being of everyone involved in winemaking, from owners to vineyard workers, is just as important. Wine writer and Decanter contributor Christina Rasmussen eloquently captures this sentiment:
The future of wine relies on its people. Only fairly treated, thriving human beings can cultivate thriving vineyard ecosystems. In turn, only thriving vineyard ecosystems can create grapes that can be transformed into wines that truly tug at our heartstrings.Christina Rasmussen
>> Discover which of our wines already meet the Vin Méthode Nature criteria and keep your eyes peeled for more
