Being able to explore less-mainstream, off-the-beaten-track regions is one of the real joys of being a buyer. The world of wine is constantly evolving, offering ample opportunities to keep learning and discovering. This is encouraged at The Wine Society where we delight in sharing new finds with our members. I recently tasted some Czech and Cypriot wines that I immediately felt would fit into our range for drinkability, quality and value.
Makarounas Vineyards, Cyprus
We have actually listed a few wines from Cyprus in the past (over and above Cyprus sherry, of course!), but the increasing popularity of Greek wines recently has encouraged us to look again at this island’s wines. They have a true sense of place and story behind them and the philosophy behind the family estate of Makarounas in particular, aligns with that of so many of our growers. Their wines are eminently drinkable yet ageworthy too.
Winemaker Theodoras Makarounas decided to start selling his family grapes under their own label in 2016. Situated in Pathos, they are the only winery using 100% estate-owned grapes, which allows them total control over the quality of the fruit and ultimately improves the quality of the resulting wine.
Working with indigenous grapes is at the heart of this estate, and due to the island’s isolation there is no phylloxera (the vine louse which destroys grapevines) on the island, so vines are all ungrafted. The soil is complex with crystal gypsum and white chalk, helping to contribute a distinct saline and mineral character to the wines. The whites in particular have a salinity that you often see in Greek assyrtiko or listan blanco in Tenerife. If island whites are your thing, then you won’t be disappointed with these.
This is a winery that is pushing itself to improve on quality, working the vineyards organically, using minimal sulphur and picking early so the wines maintain high acidity and freshness as well as restrained alcohol. I have bought three wines, two whites and a red that I feel show the best expression of the local varieties and the terroir.
Unusual indigenous co-dependent grapes
Spourtiko is a fascinating white grape interplanted in the vineyards to help cross-pollinate vasilissa and maratheftiko – varieties which can’t self-pollinate. It is a variety with modest alcohol (around 10.5%) and produces a wine that is steely, with green-apple and lime and a salty finish.
Xynisteri is Cyprus’ most widely planted grape but is mainly used for their sweet commandaria. The ancient red variety maratheftiko, meaning ‘thief and deceiver’, can’t self-pollinate so ‘steals’ pollen from other varieties. It has high tannins and high acidity that, combined with an attractive, sour-cherry, volatile floral note, can be mistaken for Italian varieties like sangiovese, aglianico and primitivo. This is a winery that is starting to gain recognition among journalists and judging panels and is certainly a producer to watch.
>>Look out for our Cypriot wines
The new old wines of Czechia
The Czech Republic has a centuries-old tradition of winemaking, though for many it is better known for its beer. Though a little wine is made in Bohemia in the north, the vast majority (95%) comes from the region of Moravia in the south. Up until now, we have struggled to source good-quality Czech wines that we feel represent good value for money. Labour costs are relatively high and the industry has had a focus on producing natural wine at premium prices which didn’t meet our requirements.
Happily, the Thaya Winery bucks this trend and we’re delighted to introduce its wines to our members. The winery is named after the River Thaya which runs through the town. The vines are close to the spectacular Podyji National Park, bordering Austria. Though Czechia has a continental climate, the park helps moderate the summer temperatures and it is actually cooler here than in the neighbouring Austrian region of Kamptal, just an hour away over the border.
With a similar climate and soils to Kamptal, it’s not surprising that Austrian grape varieties do well here, producing wines that are characteristically fresh and with restrained alcohol levels. Thaya’s young winemaker, Jakub Smrcka, is building a name for this winery and in 2021 won ‘Oenologist of the Year’ with The Winegrowers’ Association. Jakub strikes a balance with a minimalist winemaking approach, but not compromising on quality and making sure the wines are commercially friendly, picking early to retain freshness and keep alcohol in check.
These are affordable wines that offer great value for money in my opinion. The pinot blanc is similar in style to unoaked weissburgunder from Germany and less rich and lower in alcohol than many examples found in Alsace. The grüner veltliner (known locally as veltlínske zelene) is similar to lighter styles found in Kamptal and Kremstal, as well as dry furmint from Hungary.
I’m striving to find more exciting and undiscovered treasures, and I’ll be sure to update you all on any new additions.