Wherever you go, Christmas begins at the table. The food changes, the wine changes, the accents and the weather change, but the feeling is the same. People come together. They laugh, they talk, they share the food and the stories that matter most. For me, that is the real spirit of Christmas, the table full, the glasses raised, the noise of life all around.
In Spain, Christmas is never quiet. There is always music, food, and conversation that lasts for hours. The table fills with prawns, jamón, lamb and turrón, and bottles that never seem to empty. I always think of my dear Extremadura, the smell of the fire, the sound of music, the first glass of vino de pitarra from Montánchez or Sierra de Gata. It was the wine of my childhood, rustic and honest, made by hand and shared with pride. We do not drink it anymore, but it stays in my memory, a taste of where I come from. That, for me, is Christmas.
Now, in London, I see the season through a wider lens. The British have their traditions, the turkey, the roast potatoes, the gravy, the claret, and I love it. The turkey has travelled a long way to get there. It came first to Spain from the Americas, then east through Turkey, and finally to Britain. The name stayed, and the bird became part of Christmas forever. It is one of those stories that shows how food travels faster than borders.
Food carries the memory; wine keeps the conversation going. That is what it is all about.
When I cook for Christmas now, I bring all these worlds together. I might start with Spanish prawns cooked in olive oil and garlic, then a roast with a drizzle of sherry, served with British vegetables. Maybe an Italian red on the table, or a Champagne to start. Food carries the memory; wine keeps the conversation going. That is what it is all about.
Wine brings everything together. In Spain, it has always been part of the conversation, fino to wake up the appetite, amontillado with rich dishes, and Pedro Ximénez to end the meal sweetly. In France, the sparkle of Champagne turns every dinner into a celebration. In Italy, there is always something local, poured with pride. In Germany and Austria, the air smells of Glühwein, that warm, spiced comfort. And in Latin America, wines from new lands tell old stories, sunshine, laughter, generosity.
Everywhere, Christmas food and wine carry the same message, this is a moment to share. To stop for a while. To enjoy what the land gives us, and what the people around us bring to the table.
The truth is, it does not matter where you are, Extremadura, London or the other side of the world. Christmas always feels the same once the glasses are filled and the food arrives. The table becomes the world in miniature, everyone together, connected by flavour, by memory, by love.
When I sit down at Christmas, I always think of those moments back home, when life felt simple and everything revolved around food and wine. I pour a glass, I look around the table, and I know that the feeling has not changed.
That is Christmas to me, not grand, not perfect, just full of life. Food carries the memory, wine keeps the conversation going.
Cordero asado with chestnuts and Rioja
A recipe for slow-roast lamb with chestnuts and Rioja served with parsnip puree
Serve 6
Takes 4 ½ hours plus marinating
INGREDIENTS
- 1 x 2.2kg shoulder lamb
- 5 cloves garlic, bashed
- Pared zest of a lemon
- 450 ml good-quality Rioja
- 6 sprigs oregano, stripped
- 2 fresh bay leaves
- 2 large red onions, cut into wedges
- 180g pack cooked and peeled chestnuts
- 1 tbsp plain flour
- 400ml good quality fresh chicken stock
For the parsnip puree
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 shallot, finely sliced
- 500ml milk
- 1 bay leaf
- Good grating fresh nutmeg
- 700g parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks
- 100ml double cream
METHOD
- Pierce the lamb all over with a sharp narrow knife. Put into a dish and add the garlic, lemon, 200ml of the Rioja, oregano and bay leaves. Turn to coat and leave to marinate for at least 2 hours (or up to overnight).
- Heat the oven to 200°c / fan 180°c. Scatter the onions into a roasting tin, put the lamb on top and pour over all its marinade along with 150ml water. Cover tightly with tin foil and roast for 20 minutes then reduce the oven temperature to 160°c / fan 140°c, and continue to cook for 3 ½ hours.
- For the parsnips, heat the olive oil in a saucepan and gently fry the shallot for 5 minutes until tender. Add the milk, bay and nutmeg, season well and add the parsnips. Bring to the boil then reduce to a gentle simmer and cook for 15 minutes until tender. Add the cream and use a stick blender to whiz to a smooth puree. Set aside.
- Uncover the lamb, stir in the chestnuts and increase the temperature of the oven to 220°c / fan 200°c for 15-20 minutes to allow the lamb to become golden and crisp.
- Remove the lamb, onions and chestnuts to a warm serving plate and keep warm, loosely covered.
- Pour the juices from the pan into a jug and spoon off the fat. Put the roasting tin over a low heat and add 1tbsp of the fat (discard the rest) and the flour and cook for a couple of minutes. Pour in the juices from the roasting tin along with the rest of the Rioja and bubble for 3-4 minutes then add the stock and continue to bubble until it is reduced to a lovely glossy jus (keep tasting it until it is reduced to your liking).
- Serve the lamb, onions and chestnuts along with the pureed parsnips and the Rioja jus.
