Food & wine

In Season: July

How to make the most of what’s in season this month and the wines to match.

Steve Farrow

8 June 2025

I was born at the height of summer, and I’m sure it has made me a lover of the season from, quite literally, day one. From the early dawn to late dusk I love the warmth, especially when I’ve got something cool in my glass as I bask in the sun or soak in a balmy evening.

Put something fresh and mouthwatering to eat on a plate in front of me and I am in heaven. When the sun shines, I turn to dishes that have a certain refreshing lightness of touch, without sacrificing flavour. I’ve come up with a few seasonal thoughts on things to tuck into and the wines that will wash them down in complementary style.

The Society's Wine Information Editor

Steve Farrow

Having spent several years in The Showroom, Steve likes nothing more than chatting with members about food and wine and is our in-house Wine Without Fuss food and wine man.

Fire up the barbie!

Barbecues are a must for me whether over coals or gas. When it comes to the wine, it’s the punchy flavours of the sauces and marinades that matter most. Sweet, tangy, smoky, sticky sauces on pulled pork or jackfruit, for example, cry out for bold, spicy zinfandel, plumptious grenache and southern Rhônes and Aussie shiraz. These are perfect too for juicy burgers with all the trimmings. Perhaps surprisingly, off-dry wines hold their own here, think buttery oaked chardonnay and stone-fruit-packed viognier. A barbecued butterflied leg of lamb loves a Chilean carmenère or ripe Rioja. Fruity rosés work delightfully with grilled lamb, too, especially sizzling chops and are great if a herby, zippy salsa verde is served alongside. A sizzling well-seasoned steak suits a malbec, while the best bangers love a fruity Beaujolais. Charred Mediterranean veg will suit those rosés depending on the saucing or marinades, and adding Halloumi cheese to the grill won’t change that, though the fruity Rhônes and grenaches will still sing here too.

Salmon or sea trout

Salmon or its rarer cousin sea trout are a joy on a summer table, indoors or out. I love either with a salad of cucumber ribbons dressed in a dill-infused vinaigrette or a herby, sour-cream dressing. My wine choice would be a crisp Loire sauvignon, though South Africa and Chilean versions work just as well. Austrian grüner veltliner is also a great salmon match, its hints of white pepper and freshness complementing the fish, especially in stir-fries. Replace tuna with salmon in a Niçoise salad for a delicious change, lovely with fresh seaside whites (picpoul de pinet, vermentino, albariño and other modern Spanish whites) or pitch-perfect pinks. And fillets in a creamy sorrel sauce (wonderfully seasonal mid-summer) is perfect for chardonnay or chenin blanc. Finally, lighter reds are delicious with seared or grilled salmon, like pinot noir served cool, and almost any red from the Loire is a gem here.

Crab

British brown crab is such a pleasure for its sweet meat and suggestion of the seaside, and it’s bang in season in July. Simply prepared, perhaps just dressed or in a sandwich or salad it’s a joy with a German riesling with plenty of fruit or a touch of sweetness, though many sparkling wines can be a vividly fresh partner too. Maryland crab cakes make a great match with fuller-flavoured chardonnay, especially if a buttery sauce or rich mayo has been deployed, while Thai-spiced versions are super with a sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. For a real taste of the Med make yourself a crab linguine with a dash of chilli and parsley, or even a little basil, and open a bottle of something Italian and you’ll not go far wrong. If red is a must go soft and light – easy-drinking gamays are good.

Courgettes

If you grow courgettes, you’ll know what an abundance you’ll get as the summer progresses. If you can harvest a few while they are babies, say just three inches or so long, split them lengthwise and chargrill and toss with olive oil, lemon zest and juice. Season and throw in finely chopped mint, basil or parsley and tumble with fresh goat’s cheese, finishing with a sprinkling of toasted flaked almonds or pine nuts for a zingy summer salad. It suits Loire sauvignon blanc beautifully, but lots of vibrant fresh whites will be delicious here. Crisp, dry Portuguese whites will fit the bill, as will vibrant Greek whites or dry rieslings. Otherwise, fully grown courgettes hollowed out lengthwise with an apple corer and the cavities stuffed with feta and mint before baking works wonderfully with similar wines. Summer peas do well with goat’s cheese raw in a salad and with a similar range of wines.

Summer leaves

Any kitchen garden, or well-appointed window box (or even former wine box), needs a variety of cut-and-come-again salad leaves to keep the freshness coming all through the summer. Make a salad of shredded ham hock, broad beans, peas and chopped gem lettuce or plenty of pea shoots or lamb’s lettuce, and you have a mouthwatering balance of salt, sweet and leafy to dress with a tarragon vinaigrette. Pair it with the unsung grape sylvaner’s dry appley fruit or unoaked chenin blanc, though any vividly fresh unoaked white will be good here. A chicken Caesar salad, with its creamy dressing, crisp leaves, crunchy croutons and chargrilled chook (no anchovies for me but use them if they are your bag) will be super accompanied by almost any of the wines discussed above, though chardonnay has the edge, in my view. Light, juicy cherry-fruited reds can work for both salads, look to Austria or Valpolicella.

Goat’s cheese, walnut and fig jam tartlets

Food & wine

Food & wine

Food & wine

Food & wine

Food & wine

The Society's Wine Information Editor

Steve Farrow

Fire up the barbie!

Salmon or sea trout

Crab

Courgettes

Summer leaves

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