I now go through periods of time when I decide to moderate my alcohol intake. There, I never thought I’d say that in my younger days, but it’s true. I do it for all sorts of reasons and have approached this not by giving up wine – never that! – but rather by drinking a little less, but better. In terms of wine enjoyment, it’s paid off. But one of the real pleasures has been the discovery of some cracking and, dare I say it, grown-up drops to step in deliciously when a glass or two is off the (wine) list. Not least of these has been those curated by buyer Freddy Bulmer in our expanding range of ‘low and no’ treats.
As demand for drinks that offer bags of character without the heft of alcohol surf on a seemingly constant upward curving wave, we thought it would be interesting to think about a few food matching suggestions that would suit some of our popular drinks in the range, all with their own complex sets of flavours and textures. These are not simply alternatives to wine but, rather, they stand on their own two feet as something delicious to drink. Here are a handful of these grown-up glassfuls that have provided me with pleasing snifters recently, together with a few food suggestions.
LA Brewery Sparkling English Blush Kombucha
‘a vibrant, refreshing, off-dry, red-fruit-tinged wine alternative’
A vibrant and refreshing alcohol-free alternative to wine, this kombucha’s fresh, floral aromas and red-fruit-tinged tang are delicious to drink solo but will sit well with many a spring dish. Though it’s off-dry, that deliciously tart note makes this very drinkable with all kinds of dishes. A chicken tikka masala or tandoori chicken dish will suit this, and tandoori lamb chops are not beyond its reach. Piri piri or jerk spices are alternatives, perhaps on chicken or pork. Tomato-based curries or pasta sauces will not throw this match off course thanks to the acidity and sweetness in tandem, and if there are prawns in the sauce or curry all the better. Think of it as an off-dry rosé here and its charms will suit fresh strawberries and raspberries when the punnets show up on the shelves. Drop a handful into your glass of kombucha and let them bob awhile before drinking it all in and you have summer in a glass.
>> Discover our new kombucha created especially for us by LA Brewery
You + I Lime Sea Salt Kombucha
‘satisfying umami, mineral drink with zing and zip!’
A different beast to the LA Brewery version above, with the lick of smoked sea salt bringing an intriguing umami mineral note to the zingy lime flavour. I find this a deliciously satisfying drink, wonderfully refreshing but with enough about it to stand up to fairly full-flavoured foods, like a spicy stir-fry or noodle dish packed with south-east-Asian-style flavours. Salmon fillets or sea bass cooked in a parcel with slices of lemon and lime, spring onions and ginger will go down singing hymns here too. Also lovely with anything Feta or goat’s cheese-led, like a Greek salad and I’ve enjoyed it with a simply roasted chicken as well.
Lysegrøn, Copenhagen Sparkling Tea Co.
‘aromatic and complex with something of the texture of wine’
There’s a wine-like structure to this sparkling tea, something textural allied to a complex set of aromas with soft lemongrass and ginger hints among the apple, citrus, green tea, orange and stone-fruit. The palate follows through on light feet, and its fresh sparkle and balanced acidity shout out for spankingly fresh and simply prepared seafood. Think sushi and sashimi, even with pickled ginger and a little wasabi. Unadorned prawns, crayfish, lobster or crab will all sing with this, and I’d serve it happily with smoked salmon and trout, or even as a refresher with gravadlax. Firm fish in a dill-infused crème-fraiche-based or lemony sauce will sing too. Of course, Danish-style fiskefrikadeller, or fish cakes, will love this compatriot sparkler.
Zeno 'Alcohol Liberated' Viura, Spain 2024
‘crisp, aperitif-style drink that started life as wine!’
Scented with a touch of apricot, toasted lemon, a little honeysuckle and a delicate grassy character, this de-alcoholised wine is as fresh as a daisy. A tastebud-lifting aperitif, the crisp palate with its lemon-zest notes means you can pair it with salads of all sorts and with a spring vegetable frittata or tortilla. Staying with the spring theme and a Spanish tone, a vegetable paella with a hint of saffron and plenty of tender seasonal green veg will be delicious here too, though a fish-based version will work too. And a salade Niçoise packed with tuna is a fine foil for the zing of this white. I would also happily serve it with Chinese takeaway or fish and chips for its pure palate-cleansing value.
Stoker's Alcohol Free Stout, Jump Ship Brewing, Scotland
‘rich, full-bodied, velvety, roasted-malt comfort’
Rich aromas of roasted coffee, dark chocolate and a touch of vanilla foretell the full-bodied, velvety palate here, with its whisper of sweetness that finishes dry. Funnily enough there’s enough dark, roasted-malt sweetness to let it share space with a densely dark chocolatey pud – a ‘Death by Chocolate cake’, a squidgy 70% choc brownie or darkly cocoa-rich, almost bitter mousse. It’s also got the oomph to partner richer dishes like slow-cooked stews of beef or venison, especially the latter if a square or two of 70% bitter chocolate is added to give a unique depth to the dish. Barbecued meats, smoky and slathered in a sticky glaze will not faze this. Think ribs or pulled pork. Looking east, an aromatically spicy but ultimately mild, sweetly spiced rendang or massaman curry will have the depth and richness to marry with this zero-alcohol beer. And while I think of it, it will stand up to blue cheese easily in a comforting union. Finally, and arguably weirdly, serve it with a scoop of vanilla ice cream as a take on affogato meets an ice cream float!
