There are few wines that capture the generosity of southern Italy quite like Graticciaia. Produced from Vallone's finest old bush-vine negroamaro, with a proportion of the grapes dried on traditional graticci (straw mats), it is a wine that has become one of Puglia's modern classics. Rich and deeply concentrated, yet always balanced by freshness, it is often described as the 'Amarone of the south' – though its character is unmistakably its own.
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The 2021 vintage provided near-perfect conditions for this remarkable wine. A warm, dry growing season produced beautifully healthy grapes with naturally concentrated flavour, while the subsequent drying process intensified their richness and complexity still further. 16 months' ageing in French oak has brought additional polish, resulting in a Graticciaia of impressive depth, combining ripe black cherry, plum and sweet spice with notes of cocoa, pepper, dried herbs and dark chocolate. Powerful yet beautifully poised, it is a wine with remarkable freshness and finely integrated tannins that invite another glass.
Whether enjoyed with slow-cooked beef, rich game dishes or mature hard cheeses, Graticciaia is a wine to savour rather than simply drink. Decant it, pour generously and allow it to unfold over the course of an evening. I have no doubt that the outstanding 2021 vintage will only enhance its reputation as one of Italy's great full-bodied reds.
